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Post Info TOPIC: Stained and Engraved Concrete


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Stained and Engraved Concrete


Stained and Engraved Concrete info





http://www.engraveacrete.com/

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 I poured a 25 X20 patio slab last summer and did the chemical etching stain treatment,  
there are several different types of concrete coloring systems,, the powered additive that is added to the wet mix, or can be fanned out over the pour after the floating and then trowled in with the finishing ,  then there is the regular painting with epoxy that is good for garage floors where there is likely to be oil and chemical spills,  The system I used is the chemical etching that is sprayed or rolled onto the finish and cured slab. it has a chemical that etches the concrete and works in conjuction with the chemicals that are in the concrete, to color it to  a long lasting color,,,  not a coating,, but a stain,, it comes in a multitude of colors,, I used the verigated rusty antique color,,

 I also tryed using a roller,, but found out that it is hard to get the color consistant. leaving streaks, so I then used a garden sprayer, and while still wet, i went over it with the roller to even it out,, then sprayed on a sealer, to give some depth to the finish,  but I still need to add a second layer of sealer to give it more gloss,,

the mateial is not too expensive,, I think it was around 40$ a gallon and that covers something like 600 sq ft,,

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Reactive stains are not recommended to be rolled...we never do. It's always sprayed to get not only an even distribution of color but to help with the actual reaction. Some of these stains do recommend that as you spray you scrub it into the surface with a coarse, nylon bristled brush to aid in penetration. Reactive stains give a natural, verigated, translucent effect. Clear sealer should always be done in 2 coats, spraying is fine but I prefer to roll mine with the coats being applied in opposing directions to avoid lap marks.
Paint of any kind is topical, even the epoxy ones. Some DIYers have had a degree of success with vigorous prep and proper maintenance, though. We never use paint of any kind, everything we use is penetrating.
There are many, many materials for coloring and refinishing concrete but the 1 common thing is proper surface preparation. The big box stores that sell the DIY products neglect to inform their customers of the proper prep methods and those jobs usually result in failure and disappointment. The Home Hardware products "Granite" and "Hard Rock", for example, are the type of resurfacing material I mean. You would not believe the amount of failure I've seen for those here. In fact, the local H.H. actually don't really "push" those here and refer people to me. That stuff is expensive and time consuming and the "normal" DIYers don't have the gear or experience for proper prep. I have to laugh at their TV ad that shows some clown rolling the stuff over a crack and PRESTO it's all good. Not in the real world.
Don't get my wrong Rat, I'm just passing along some tips . That's an excellent price on material you got...I can't get it for that. Good one! My price for the job you described would be $3 - 3.50 per square foot and I think that's fairly consistant across North America. Extra prep such as paint removal would obviously add to that. Pattern and design engraving would also add to the price.

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Thanks Come on,, I" m not real sure of that price, but I think thats pretty close,,, I have been a lisenced contractor here for nearly 35 years, [now retired ] but I still keep my lisence up to date,,,,so I got the cont, price,,,but it wasn't too awful expensive I bought it at a concrete supply store, the same time that I was paying for the concrete, that I had some guys pour for me,, How much is concrete where you live,, its around 115 a yard here, [Oregon] that was last summer,, might be a bit more now with the fuel ripoff,,,,,I did the staining myself,,I Havn't really done much concrete ..or residential stuff,, [except for myself and friends] we specalized in commercial tennant improvement, and highrise office buildout,, shopping centers etc,,
I just posted over on the other thread on concrete and foundations on the next part of the patio I intend to do real soon,,,,, but I am thinking about going with the decreative patterned concrete insted of the travertine tile,,

-- Edited by Bad Rat at 19:02, 2008-05-11

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Hiya Rat! The price you got your stuff for is a good deal, but I didn't mean to sound like it was "super low". I actually can get some stuff for around that...taking reactive stain and even a pretty decent solvent based sealer. There's other stuff that I use a lot that's considrably more expensive, but it's for certain applications, results and warrenties. My cost for ready mix was $120.00/ yard if the load was 4 yards minimum and $130.00 for orders less than 4 yards. I haven't heard this season's rate yet, but I'll bet it went up not down. Heh,heh.
Your slab could look exactly like the travertine if you wanted. Only all one piece. Our specialty saws have different blades for different effects 3/8" 1/4" even a wavy one. With our impactor tools we have literally hundreds of designs and patterns and some use those freehand too. Or custom templates can be made for logos or whatever. I always freehand the random flagstone pattern. It's our most popular, most time consuming and most expensive.
I will do a slight plug for the pros in what I do 'cause as most of you know; having the right tools for the job makes all of the difference in the world. I have been called into jobs where skill saws and concrete/masonry blades were used to score lines to make a tile pattern...not bad. Next to the lines engraved with one of the tools we use, though...there is a difference. It's to be expected though, each of us in our fields stand out when compared to even the most capable DIYers.

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  Hi Ya Come on,,,,,, I was looking at some of the pictures and how-to videos on how to do the staining process,,on the internet,,,, on one of the videos,, they were netuerlizing the acid after the staining process by spraying it with baking soda,, which then requires that the soda needs to be thourghly cleaned up before the sealer is applyed,, which involves a lot of mopping and water changing ,, BUT this video was the only one that suggested using soda,,  is this the normal process? or is there a easier way?  I can't remember if I used soda or not,, I do know that I did alot of scrubbing to remove the residue,wink

  Bill

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Hiya Rat! That's one way, but not the way I do it. Clean up would be insane! I dilute clear ammonia somewhere around 6:1 or 8:1 and sprinkle it around with a plastic watering can. Give that a good scrub with a stiff pushbroom and rinse until the runoff is clear. It can be a little rough on surrounding plants if you're not careful, but an easier way to go than soda.

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Here's my Myspace link for some project ideas or info.

http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=306432609 

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