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Post Info TOPIC: Tile Around Tub - (shameful post)


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Tile Around Tub - (shameful post)


This is one of those repairs that I have been putting off since we bought this older home, however, it's time to do something about it.  As you can tell by the picture, the laminate wall covering that was originally put up around the bath tub has (over the years) become water damaged and needs replacing.

Bottomline is that we are going to sell and move in the near future so economy is most important as well as having a efficient job done.

Some of my options are:
1.  leave the old board in place and have a tileman just go over it with ceramic tile.
2.  have the old board removed and a new "similiar" type wall covering put in its place.
3.  have it done as if I planned on dying here - LOL, which would be take down the old board and put up new ceramic tile.

Soooooo, has anyone encountered this problem or have any "nifty" ideas as to the best way to fix it before selling the place????

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Well because of what I do my response goes directly to it. We do a vertical concrete application that bonds permanently to drywall, cement board and any concrete or masonry surface. We seamlessly color and pattern it to very convincingly look like tile, stone, brick...just about anything. I did a custom shower stall in one of our bathrooms...floor, walls and ceiling. Seamless and leak proof...oops, sorry...I'm gettin' all torqued up on what I do again.

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What's behind the laminate? Bare studs or is there cement board? If you are looking to sell I'd say spend a little money and really make it look nice. Bathrooms and kitchens sell houses so chances are you'll get your money back and then some when you sell. I'd be looking at putting up some of the marble or granite looking tiles in a neutral color with a matching grout. Go for the larger tiles. Of course, a nice tile job won't do you any good if there's a baby blue toilet sitting next to it so...lol...don't you just hate how one thing always leads to another when it comes to home improvements? wink

Peg

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For all the extra work it takes, I would tear it out too......You don't know how solid it is behind taht old board, as it is probably already leaking...........I figure its probably only one days extra work to rip it back to the studs.....if it is studs behind there.

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poncho62 wrote:

For all the extra work it takes, I would tear it out too......You don't know how solid it is behind taht old board, as it is probably already leaking...........I figure its probably only one days extra work to rip it back to the studs.....if it is studs behind there.



that's what I think I'll do - - - then I can make a better evaluation of the situation and then call the tile man - - - thanks, gang

I do like the sound of the larger tile also - - tnx



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Peg


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Tile man?!? You don't need no stinking tile man! lol Really, this is probably a project you could do yourself if you want to. One of the things I like about the larger tiles is that they go up so much quicker than the smaller ones. Grouting is easier too. The local big box stores actually have a pretty nice selection. Just make sure you get tile rated for wet area use.

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Peg wrote:

Tile man?!? You don't need no stinking tile man! lol Really, this is probably a project you could do yourself if you want to. One of the things I like about the larger tiles is that they go up so much quicker than the smaller ones. Grouting is easier too. The local big box stores actually have a pretty nice selection. Just make sure you get tile rated for wet area use.



LOL - ten years ago, maybe???  However, with the current limitations that age has kindly bestowed upon my body, I think a "Pro" is in order, here!  Sure do like the idea about the larger tile, tho.

thanks,



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As far as style goes the larger vertical tile for showers, tub surrounds, etc are definately the "in" thing to do. Even for what I do, when we mimic tile it's the larger stuff for sure.

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LOL - ten years ago, maybe???  However, with the current limitations that age has kindly bestowed upon my body, I think a "Pro" is in order, here!  Sure do like the idea about the larger tile, tho.

thanks

   Oh God  !!!  I know that feeling so well,,,  ESPECALLY THIS MORNING
 My oldest son called me Friday, asking to borrow my big car trailer, to haul 30 - 10 ft tall arbervita trees,, so yesterday he came and got the trailer, and as usual I told him to call me if he needed help unloading them,,[ just being nice,biggrin really not expecting him to call ,,,cause he usually has a bunch of buddys hanging around and they help each other ] but he did call [Damn it] so I went over and his place looked like a nursery,, trees every where, so him and I  planted 30 trees,in about 7 hours, and then I came home and mowed my grass that was 8" tall,, I feel like I been run over by a damn MACK truck this morning,, every bone in my body hurts,, then some,, 
 I just ain't as young as I use to be,, I'll be 70 in Sept,, Guess I better go mow and bale the grass in the back yard now,,

 I have to agree with every  body else on the bathroom wall,, I just never felt that  jury rigging something was the right way to do anything, It always comes back to bite you in the posterior, new tile and a little paint and that bathroom will be a beautiful thing,, and a great place to take care of pressing businesscrybiggrin


-- Edited by Bad Rat at 11:31, 2008-06-01

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As soon as the Wiff gets outa the bathroom - - - I'm taking my sheetrock knife and small hand grinder with the cutting wheel and removing the laminate - - - almost scared to imagine what is behind it - - - - sure do hope that there aren't rotten studs and flooring to contend with - - - wish me luck, and Y'all and have a great Sunday.

GBOT

mello

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when you get it tore out .take a photo just to show the damage.if it has leaked verry long you will have stud and bottom plate damage.if its a wood sub floor it could be even worse to repair.sub floor and maybe a few floor joist.if its on a slab the damage will be naturaly less.i hope its not real bad.geezer

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geezer69 wrote:

when you get it tore out .take a photo just to show the damage.if it has leaked verry long you will have stud and bottom plate damage.if its a wood sub floor it could be even worse to repair.sub floor and maybe a few floor joist.if its on a slab the damage will be naturaly less.i hope its not real bad.geezer



OK, TEAM and GEEZER - LOL  (HERE ARE THE LATEST PICS)

But first the GOOD NEWS - - - there seems to be no damage or rot anywhere on the back wall the insulation wasn't even damp - - thank you JESUS !

Of course I haven't taken the end walls off yet and I am going to do that just as soon as the Wiff and I go grab a Double Jalapeno Cheeseburger or the equivalent - - LOL

Hope the pics are OK and will all load up - - - - stand by for future developments in the neverending saga of "why not to buy a fixer upper" biggrin

P.S. AND thanks one more time to Poncho for providing this Forum for procrastinators like me - - biggrin




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Got the end wall removed that doesn't have any plumbing in it but I have a question about the plumbing wall before I post the pics.

See attached picture - - - - what I need to know is - - - DOES THE SPOUT JUST UNSCREW FROM THE STUBBED OUT PIPE ????  - - - - I HAVE NEVER REMOVED ONE THAT HAD THE SHOWER LEVER BUILT INTO IT - - - ????????

need help here real badly - - - ?????

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Looks like you're on a roll of good luck buddy! Ya gots ta love that. biggrin I'm no plumber, but I have done what you're asking. Any that I have had experience with screw right out. Don't know if there's any that don't weirdface...can't hurt anything by tryin' the way I see it. Hope yer good luck continues.

One other thing I was gonna mention...when I do my concrete thing for tub surrounds and in showers I use a waterproofing membrane made by a company by the name of Schluter. It's easy to use and gives absolute waterproofing protection. If you have ever watched them do a bathroom project on that show Holmes On Homes you have seen it used under their tile. I would highly recommend using it. It has never failed me and gives peace of mind in terms of rotten walls and mould. Just my 2 cents worth of free advice.

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Come On wrote:

Looks like you're on a roll of good luck buddy! Ya gots ta love that. biggrin I'm no plumber, but I have done what you're asking. Any that I have had experience with screw right out. Don't know if there's any that don't weirdface...can't hurt anything by tryin' the way I see it. Hope yer good luck continues.

One other thing I was gonna mention...when I do my concrete thing for tub surrounds and in showers I use a waterproofing membrane made by a company by the name of Schluter. It's easy to use and gives absolute waterproofing protection. If you have ever watched them do a bathroom project on that show Holmes On Homes you have seen it used under their tile. I would highly recommend using it. It has never failed me and gives peace of mind in terms of rotten walls and mould. Just my 2 cents worth of free advice.



Thanks, Pal, I'll give her a turn or two and see what happens - - - after I get the walls stripped down, I'll have several more questions so don't leave town - - OK???



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OK, TEAM - - the wall is clean and absolutely no damage was found - - "whew"

Those who would like to please take a look at the last set of pics and see if any of you experts or wrecksperts (moi) see anything that I may need to do before replacing the water board and that waterproofing membrane that ComeOn mentioned (BTW - does it matter whether that membrane goes on behind or in front of the water board??) - - - I think my son should probably take that step in his bathrooms also but the rock is already up so it may be too late????

Thanks again, friends - - - "life is good"

Mello

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We put it onto the gyprock or cementboard and then do our thing. If by waterboard you mean moisture resistant gyprock ('cause that's what we call it too) put it on it. Then yer good ta go with yer tile. It's an incredible product and I won't do a shower or tub surround without it.

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Come On wrote:

We put it onto the gyprock or cementboard and then do our thing. If by waterboard you mean moisture resistant gyprock ('cause that's what we call it too) put it on it. Then yer good ta go with yer tile. It's an incredible product and I won't do a shower or tub surround without it.



That's exactlyl what I meant by water board - - - too lazy to type the other - LOL  Still need to understand what media the membrane is - - -do you brush it on, stick it on, staple it on?????? Get my drift here ???  Maybe a link if you don't mind???

Thanks again, I'm thru for the night but no shower just a rub-a-dub-tubber biggrin

"Now where's my rubber duckie?"



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It's a rubber membrane with imbedded woven fabric of some sort. You install it using a thinset material. Check out their site at www.schluter.com . It's an easy install.

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Come On wrote:

It's a rubber membrane with imbedded woven fabric of some sort. You install it using a thinset material. Check out their site at www.schluter.com . It's an easy install.



Perfect - - thanks again !





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You da man! lol I would never be that lucky. Glad there's no water damage. It does look like there's some mold starting along the bottom edge of the insulation so I'd probably pull the old stuff out of that one wall and replace it. While your at it you could stick a little in the end walls as well to reduce noise from the shower.
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Peg wrote:

You da man! lol I would never be that lucky. Glad there's no water damage. It does look like there's some mold starting along the bottom edge of the insulation so I'd probably pull the old stuff out of that one wall and replace it. While your at it you could stick a little in the end walls as well to reduce noise from the shower.
Peg



Good point, I'll make it a point to pick up some insulation when I get the cement backer board today.



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Geez, Mello...I've got a bunch of the stuff takin' up space in my already too small garage...come get it. Heh,heh. For best results with that backer board we use stainless screws, not drywall ones. Just a little tip, there pal.

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you lucked out.looks good.you can install the tile.its not that hard to do.but if youve never done it and need it quick.get the tile man.

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Come On wrote:

Geez, Mello...I've got a bunch of the stuff takin' up space in my already too small garage...come get it. Heh,heh. For best results with that backer board we use stainless screws, not drywall ones. Just a little tip, there pal.



On my way - - LOL  Hopefully I can find those stainless screws that seat themselves - - however, I do live in BFB so availability is limited on lots of things

and to Geez, I think I sub out the tile setting this time - - - too much going on to tackle it.

thanks, y'all



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BFB???........I think I know where that is....not sure of the last "B"..

I am in BFN.........Bum F--- Nowhere................LOL

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poncho62 wrote:

BFB???........I think I know where that is....not sure of the last "B"..

I am in BFN.........Bum F--- Nowhere................LOL



LOL, you're definitely in the groove, in my case it's Buffalo, Texas - - - just got back from picking up 4 sheets of backer board and NO PLACE IN TOWN had stainless, galvanized or self-counter sinking screws - - - "surprise surprise" biggrin

so, since we are going to sell and move anyway - - those regular old 1 1/4 sheetrock screws are starting to look real adaquate - - -LOL



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Yeah...you use what you got.....A Home depot is a good hour from here. We do have a little Walmart in town though......whoopie.............LOL

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poncho62 wrote:

Yeah...you use what you got.....A Home depot is a good hour from here. We do have a little Walmart in town though......whoopie.............LOL



We call that "makin do" in Texas - - y'all probebly call it about the same.

I got the back wall done and the non-plumbing end done today - - - then my old body and wise old experience said to wait and do the plumbing wall tomorrow.  I used up two cutting wheels and spun the arbor outa one so I may pick up another wheel or blade for the skill saw in order to do a good clean job on the last piece.

Believe it or not, I hooked up two drills - - - one with a phillips screw tip and one with a 3/8" drill bit and used the screw tip to drive the screws and then backed them out and used the 3/8" as a countersinker and then bottomed the screws up - -- took a little longer but it sure looks good and the joints are perfect (the ones on the backer board - - not mine biggrin)



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Whooo...impressive with all the riggin' in! Heh,heh. Yup...there's plenty of "makin' do" around here at times too.

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BFB? confused Backside of %&*% beyond? I've been there! LOL

Peg

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Actually Poncho had the BFB nailed - - - Bum (insert your own F word) Buffalo !

Finally got the cement board up and now I'm ready for the "Tyle Pursan" biggrin
If I can find one in BFB - - LOL

Took a little longer than I had planned but I'm happy with the results.

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CHS


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Looks nice, now if your tile guy/gal can just finish it out nicely as well. I've seen a few lousy jobs in my time.

BTW, it was hard to tell from your earlier photos..........what type of supply piping is that going to the shower valve????

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CHS wrote:

Looks nice, now if your tile guy/gal can just finish it out nicely as well. I've seen a few lousy jobs in my time.

BTW, it was hard to tell from your earlier photos..........what type of supply piping is that going to the shower valve????



thanks, the supply is in PVC but the shower stand pipe is galvanized - - - everything looked pretty good - - -(fingers crossed)

I understand what you are saying about poor craftsmanship and that is always a concern - - - if I can't find a good qualified tile setter then I may just have to learn how to set it myself - - - however I DO NOT WANT TO !



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I think I've torn apart 50+ wall surrounds to do and cannot recall ever seeing PVC for supply line.

Always copper, iron or now pex or wirsbo. Is PVC ok by code in them thar parts???

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Looks like ya did a good job Mello. Wanna move to N.S. and do that steady? biggrin

I'm tryin' to attach a couple of pix of our work...seamless vertical concrete. No grout, no individual pieces...seamless and watertight.

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I should say that we didn't do the glass work, but in that same pic the floor is concrete and heated.

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CHS wrote:

I think I've torn apart 50+ wall surrounds to do and cannot recall ever seeing PVC for supply line.

Always copper, iron or now pex or wirsbo. Is PVC ok by code in them thar parts???



This PVC seemed to be the kind that you use for hot water lines - - - deal is that this is an old house that used to be a school house way way way back and the PO's have added on as well as the previous PO's so needless to say - - I don't think that "code" came into play on this structure - - - LOL



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Come On wrote:

Looks like ya did a good job Mello. Wanna move to N.S. and do that steady? biggrin

I'm tryin' to attach a couple of pix of our work...seamless vertical concrete. No grout, no individual pieces...seamless and watertight.



Nice work and you DO have my attention - - - so tell me more????  Would you recommend that "seamless" material for a little (gonna sell soon) job like I'm doing???

In other words "TELL ME MORE, TELL ME MORE" - - - yes, I know it was a pityfull play on the song from "GREASE" - - - LOL



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I got that "Grease" thing right away...hope that song doesn't stay in my head all night now. Heh,heh. The rain has me trapped indoors today so I'm bouncin' around to different sites. When we do the seamless thing, we're priced competatively with higher end tile installed. Biggest selling points are the fact that it's seamless and colors and tile size/shape aren't dictated by anything ('cause they don't really exist). Because I do it, I recommend it for everywhere ! biggrin Would you do it yourself or try to find a guy? If you're gonna do it I'll do my best to talk ya through it.

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Come On wrote:

I got that "Grease" thing right away...hope that song doesn't stay in my head all night now. Heh,heh. The rain has me trapped indoors today so I'm bouncin' around to different sites. When we do the seamless thing, we're priced competatively with higher end tile installed. Biggest selling points are the fact that it's seamless and colors and tile size/shape aren't dictated by anything ('cause they don't really exist). Because I do it, I recommend it for everywhere ! biggrin Would you do it yourself or try to find a guy? If you're gonna do it I'll do my best to talk ya through it.



I know about those songs sticking in yer "haid" for sure - - -at least it wasn't "Go Greased Lighting" - - - LOL

If I went with the seamless then it would definitely be because I was doing it myslef - - - if I find a tile setter then I'm going with a basic white ceramic grouted in and old fashioned so to speak  - - - that laminate is still going to be around the tile so it has to coordinate some what - - - cost isn't eveything but it is a major consideration since we will be selling later on.

'preciate your help here !



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Come On wrote:

Biggest selling points are the fact that it's seamless and colors and tile size/shape aren't dictated by anything ('cause they don't really exist). I don't understand that last statement. Because I do it, I recommend it for everywhere ! biggrin Would you do it yourself or try to find a guy? If you're gonna do it I'll do my best to talk ya through it. Let's say I am going to try and do this - - OK?

What are the very mininum tools that I need to set ceramic tile - - - i.e. can I use a cutting wheel on a hand grinder???  or do I have to have a wet-saw????  What type/toothed trowel is needed and what kind of thin-set do I use to adhere it to the Hardee Cement Backer Board???

If I decide to just go with glossy white ceramic (say 6x8) what do you fill in the spaces with after the tile is set to the wall???

Sorry you offered now???? - - LOL

We are going to Palestine tomorrow and they have a Lowes so depending on what I find out, I may just pick up some tools and material and tackle it myself.  Looks like finding a reputable tile person here in BFB isn't going to be easy.

Thanks, CO,
Mello







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You didn't understand my "doesn't exist" statement 'cause I didn't make myself clear enough. I don't actually use tile...not one. I trowel my material up the wall and then (for a tile pattern) I use 3/8" wide tape and put that on the dried scratch coat material where grout lines would be. Then, I take my finish material (usually integrally colored) and trowel it up the wall. After it has set about half way I pull the tape out. That exposes the scratch coat and makes a bit of relief. After it all cures hard I seal with 2 coats of clear epoxy or a high mil urethane or the very best stuff is known as P.A.P. It is seamless, looks exactly like tile, feels exactly like tile...only the "tiles" will never come loose and the "grout" will never need redone.

Make sense now? I've given away my trade secrets...I'm ruined! biggrin

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Come On wrote:

You didn't understand my "doesn't exist" statement 'cause I didn't make myself clear enough. I don't actually use tile...not one. I trowel my material up the wall and then (for a tile pattern) I use 3/8" wide tape and put that on the dried scratch coat material where grout lines would be. Then, I take my finish material (usually integrally colored) and trowel it up the wall. After it has set about half way I pull the tape out. That exposes the scratch coat and makes a bit of relief. After it all cures hard I seal with 2 coats of clear epoxy or a high mil urethane or the very best stuff is known as P.A.P. It is seamless, looks exactly like tile, feels exactly like tile...only the "tiles" will never come loose and the "grout" will never need redone.

Make sense now? I've given away my trade secrets...I'm ruined! biggrin



thanks, for releasing your trade secrets - - -however, as far as I'm concerned they are still a secret - - - LOL

too many "journeyman" words for me - - - sorry - - - just dumb I guess - - - I'll take a look at Lowe's tomorrow and see what they have to offer then I'll give you a holler if I need more advice - - - biggrin




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Mello, I think what he means is that there are no tiles in the photos he posted. It's all cement made to look like tile! 

How hard is it to get it troweled on smooth enough? What kind of mix do you use? Is it something that we could get at a big box or do you mix your own?

I really like the look. Almost makes me wish I didn't already have a shower stall!


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Thanx Peg...that's exactly right...no tile.

It's very easy to get a smooth finish...even if your trowelling skills aren't top knotch, the sealer is a high mil and it will feel as smooth as acrylic.

I do this in custom showers, around fireplaces, retaining walls...anywhere really. The pattern can be tile, brick, stone...they're done with different technique, but convincing enough to fool just about everyone who sees it.

There are specialty mixes that can be bought from specialty suppliers. They are generally and basically polymer modified. I messed around and came up with my own batch. The most important thing is the bond/adhesion. The material itself could be almost anything with a good bonder and a good high build sealer. You can integrally mix color into your batch and/or stain for effect before sealing. I do both.

The big box stores have been selling different overlay and texturing products lately. Mostly, I see it advertised for makin' patios/walkways look better...in an overlay application. These same products could go up a wall.

In our master bath I built a custom shower... the floor, walls and ceiling are all done with the technique I talked about. Yep!...even the ceiling, no problem. People who see it think I spent $20K on marble, but it's just concrete. Heh,heh.

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OK, Gang, Economics and Tileman NON-availability (plus the fact my Son talked me into it) caused us to stop at Lowe's Home Improvement Center today and "pig out" - - LOL

I bought three boxes of 12x12 gloss white with a slight beige string in it, one large bucket of ceramic tile adhesive, two bags of unsanded white grout, two jugs of special liquid for mixing grout (?), a 1/4 x 1/4 trowel, a rubber float, a sponge, a swirl type drill beater for mixing grout, 2 pkgs of 1/8" spacers and other miscellaneous items - - - less than $200 (not bad, I thought)

My oldest son has a wet-saw that I can borrow so I'll hook up with him this weekend and get hold of that and then I should be ready to "rock and roll".

"EVERYONE KEEPS SAYING - - that setting ceramic tile is soooooo easy if you just go slowly and pay attention"  - - SLOW and ATTENTION are two of my greatest attributes so I should be a Master Tile Setter in about a week - - - LOL

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Sounds like you're good to go man. Good luck. Your tile sounds like a nice.

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  I did this mello, so if I can do it you sure as hell can

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Nice work, BR, mine are big old 12x12's so once I get the wet-saw, it may not be too bad - - - you can bet that pics will be flowing once I start.

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