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New Trailer Floor


Well, the time has come to stop throwing that old piece of plywood over the rot and quit procrastinating and replace the rotten floor in my little utility trailer.

I plan on putting in good Wolmanized or Penatreated lumber without cutting the channel iron on the rear end because I don't have a torch or a welder anymore. (big D's will do that to a feller)

My plan is to cut the new lumber to a real tight fit and hopefully drive them in place and then put a header of some sort across the front end of the whole mess and attach each board to that header.

Anybody got any better ideas or suggestions ?- - - "that I can afford that is"biggrin

 



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sounds like a plan to me.are you gona go with 2x12's or smaller.the 2x12 is stronger.im sure you know that though.

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geezer69 wrote:
sounds like a plan to me.are you gona go with 2x12's or smaller.the 2x12 is stronger.im sure you know that though.


good point, Geeze, I don't need a lot of strength such as hauling a car or anything like that but I do put the riding lawnmower in there occasionally and I like to be able to haul top soil, mulch and etc also- - - the only thing about the narrower boards would be that I can bow them to fit in place easier than the 12"ers.  if I had a torch and a welder then I would definitely use the 12's - - - I may ask around town and see if I can find some old boy that could cut the angle iron off and then let me install the lumber and have him weld the iron back in place - - - problem is that I know NO ONE in this God forsaken place no

 



-- Edited by Mello Yello on Sunday 20th of September 2009 11:27:55 AM

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now i gotcha..! the boards go under the chanel. rite?you have to bow em to get em in?
can you splice the boards on a support and stagger the splices?that would make it easier to get them in place.



















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geezer69 wrote:
now i gotcha..! the boards go under the chanel. rite?you have to bow em to get em in?
can you splice the boards on a support and stagger the splices?that would make it easier to get them in place.


hmmm, got me thinking - - once I get the old floor out, I'll know more confuse

 



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By a header I suspose you are talking a piece of angle iron across the width of the trailer, on TOP of the board ends, one angle up against the front of the trailer and the other laying on the boards,,accross the front,{ am I on the right page here? } If so  and you don't have access to a welder,, how about getting the boards in and then cut a legnth of 1 1/2 X1 1/2 angle,,or what ever?? then drill holes through the angle + boards+ what ever is holding the boards from the bottom, and bolt it all down,,  a couple of new drill bits are cheaper than a welder I think,, wouldn't even have to bolted to every board,, but it sure would be more sturdy if you did do every board,,


 Or am I missing the whole point here,, which is entirely possable,,

 once you get the boards out  post up another picture,,,

-- Edited by Bad Rat on Sunday 20th of September 2009 07:12:43 PM

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I get your drift and I will post up another pic when I get the rotten stuff cut out.

Hard to know exact what or where the cross braces and etc are right now.

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Well, I finally got a couple of days to try and start replacing the floor in my little utility trailer and since I DO NOT have a torch or a welding machine, I am having to grind the welds out. frustrated.gif  I will probably just drill and bolt that rear cap that holds the boards in rather than get somebody to weld it again. confuse

I finally burnt up my "OLD" Monkey-Ward Body Grinder from the 70's - - - hahaha

Now I'm down to my small B&D hand grinder but will probably have to go to ACE in a little while and pick up some new grinding wheels. sprint.gif

PICS & QUESTIONS TO FOLLOW confuse


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Buy a few cutoff wheels that will fit your grinder,, they will cut welds better than grinder discs,,[ of course you knew this,, ]biggrinbiggrin

If you use the 2x6's that will bow easier than the 12's like you said,, and insted of trying to cut out the front angle piece,, [ Just a idea here,, that MIGHT work]frustrated.gif

Cut the boards to legnth,, then use a piece of 2x2 or 2x4  for a wedge ,, then place it on the X-member closest to the center of the trailer,,to bend the board over to get it to bow enough to slip under the front angle,,[ or back,,]   then knock the wedge out and the board should  then be under the front and rear angle, and you could bolt them down to the angles,,   confuseeyepopping.gif 

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Too late to BOW'EM but I did think about doing that before I decided to go ahead and remove the tail cap !

I got the tail cap off and I do have some cutting wheels but the grinding wheel seemed easier to control - - - OH WELL, she's out now winkbiggrin

After I get the boards out then I'll snap another pic to show the cross bracing (if any?) - - - I am planning on going with the widest wolmanized two-by that I can get here in BFB thumbsup.gif



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"No More Woodie"winkbiggrin
That was easier than I thought it would be - - - - hardest part was carrying the old wood to the burn pile biggrin

As you can see by the pics, there are 3 good sturdy angle iron cross braces about 30" to 36" apart so nothing needed there.headbang.gif

QUESTION:  If I go with 10" or 12" wide lumber do you think it is necessary to fasten the centers of each board to a brace????  The reason I am asking is that when you drill a hole and fill it with metal then you create a prime spot for rust and rot and water to stay confuse

Think I'll knock the stink off and take the Wiffy to "Woody's World Famous Barbeque" and chow down on some Pork Ribs hungry.gif



 



-- Edited by Mello Yello on Saturday 23rd of January 2010 01:35:09 PM

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Why not use some 5/4 deck planking? I used that on my now gone car haul trailer and it held up real nicely. It was treated and reasonably priced - and did hold the weight of a car without the weight of 2 x lumber.

...and the ribs - that'll fix any other problemsbiggrin

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5/4???  confused.gif

Ribs were good but not great, however, I had worked myself up a real good appetite and left only the bones hungry.gif - - - - now it's couch time in BFB sleep.gif

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Mello Yello wrote:

 

"No More Woodie"winkbiggrin
That was easier than I thought it would be - - - - hardest part was carrying the old wood to the burn pile biggrin

As you can see by the pics, there are 3 good sturdy angle iron cross braces about 30" to 36" apart so nothing needed there.headbang.gif

QUESTION:  If I go with 10" or 12" wide lumber do you think it is necessary to fasten the centers of each board to a brace????  The reason I am asking is that when you drill a hole and fill it with metal then you create a prime spot for rust and rot and water to stay confuse

Think I'll knock the stink off and take the Wiffy to "Woody's World Famous Barbeque" and chow down on some Pork Ribs hungry.gif



 



-- Edited by Mello Yello on Saturday 23rd of January 2010 01:35:09 PM

Why don't you use those Galvanized self tapping screws,, [the heavy duty ones about 1/8---3/16 dia  that drill their own pilot hole, they are usually hex head so you will need a hex head shaft, like goes in a screw gun,, I use them on my quad trailer and they work great, and saves alot of drilling,, and drill bits,, and cussin,, [course you don't do that do you,,] 

 I think I would put screws in every X-member,, at least 2  per board,, thats where alot of stregnth comes from,, other wise its gonna want to twist and wiggle when you pull it down the road,, My son.. didn't put screws in but half of his X members,, and it bounced around alot,, but didn't after he screwed all the boards down,,



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Saturday 23rd of January 2010 04:09:48 PM

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Galvanized Self-Tapping Screws???

Will they work without first drilling a pilot hole??

These cross braces are some pretty hefty angle iron !

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Oh-oh!!! Did it againdisbelief

5/4 is nominally 1-1/4 - a standard carpentry/wood working term. Except it is actually 1"eyepopping.gif.

Something like a 2x4 is actually measures 1-1/2 x 3-1/2crying.gif.

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Remember, I was building taht trailer before the snow hit....I was talking to a lumber guy here and he said a real good board to use on trailer floors is Hemlock......A tad more expensive than pressure treated, but holds up much better. He said for my 6x14 foot floor, I could do it for under $200...2" thick....not sure if they have 1" boards, going to ask in the spring.

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Don't think they have Hemlock down here no- - - just pine, oak, fir and veneer so, since, I won't be hauling anything heavier than a washer/dryer, load of mulch or a riding lawn mower, the treated two-bys is probably what I'll go with ??????????

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Another gorgeous day in East Texas but a little windy so I decided to check the wiring harness on the trailer.  Sometimes it's hard to understand why they can do such a good job in the welding and construction and then have the wiring look like it was done by a mad spider with a cutting torch.  Everywhere they burnt a hole for the wiring still had the slag around the hole and of course no protection around the wires at all. 

Well there is protective covering around each location where it goes thru the frame now plus tiestraps to hold it firmly and not let it work back and forth from road vibration.

Hmmmm, might be a good time to pack the bearing also ???

HEY RAT - - - you never answered my question about those selftapping screws - - - - the question was "?will they drill down thru this angle iron without having to drill a pilot hole first?"  If they will, then I'll pick some up at Lowes tomorrow when we go to Palestine grocery shopping !



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Mello Yello wrote:

Another gorgeous day in East Texas but a little windy so I decided to check the wiring harness on the trailer.  Sometimes it's hard to understand why they can do such a good job in the welding and construction and then have the wiring look like it was done by a mad spider with a cutting torch.  Everywhere they burnt a hole for the wiring still had the slag around the hole and of course no protection around the wires at all. 

Well there is protective covering around each location where it goes thru the frame now plus tiestraps to hold it firmly and not let it work back and forth from road vibration.

Hmmmm, might be a good time to pack the bearing also ???

HEY RAT - - - you never answered my question about those selftapping screws - - - - the question was "?will they drill down thru this angle iron without having to drill a pilot hole first?"  If they will, then I'll pick some up at Lowes tomorrow when we go to Palestine grocery shopping !



Sorry Meller,, got busy cookin some BBchickins [by the way,, I want your version of a recipe]

 to answer the question about the screws,, YES they do drill their own started hole and tap it all at once.. thats whay they are called self tappers  This is a pic of a 1/4 x1/4x14x11/4,, which would be too short for your app, and probably a little bigger size  like a 10 or so,, 

 



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Sunday 24th of January 2010 04:35:11 PM

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Bad Rat wrote:
Sorry Meller,, got busy cookin some BBchickins [by the way,, I want your version of a recipe] 
Are you doing Whole or Halves?
 to answer the question about the screws,, YES they do drill their own started hole and tap it all at once.. thats whay they are called self tappers  This is a pic of a 1/4 x1/4x14x11/4,, which would be too short for your app, and probably a little bigger size  like a 10 or so,,
Thanks, I'll see what Lowes has and probably pick up some tomorrow! 

 


 



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furiousMello Yello wrote:

 

Bad Rat wrote:
Sorry Meller,, got busy cookin some BBchickins [by the way,, I want your version of a recipe] 
Are you doing Whole or Halves?

Did Beer butt ,, turned out good,, but want to try your rub, or whatever you use,, biggrin 

 

 On the tapping screws,, a screw gun works great,, you will find out quick that if you use too much pressure trying to drill the hole,, the cutting tip will get hot and dull up,, so just use steady pressure, and you won't use as many screws..

I did a trailer with 1/8" thick angle flanges,, and they worked great, saves alot of drilling and bolting ,,furious

 the head should suck down below the surface of the wood , so you won't have the heads sticking up,, easier to shovel out  dirt ,, ETC




 




-- Edited by Bad Rat on Sunday 24th of January 2010 11:17:02 PM

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Bad Rat wrote:
Did Beer butt ,, turned out good,, but want to try your rub, or whatever you use,, biggrin 

I mostly beer butt these days but occasionally I will just do 1/2s on the pit and when I do I like to use Zesty Italian Dressing and my favorite Mesquite OR Chicken Tickler rub from Williams Spice Company.  If you would like, I'll order up a couple of 12oz bottles and Pony Express them to you but only if you promise not to sick the Bomb Squad police.gifon me again rofl.giflmao.gifwinkbiggrin

 



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Mello Yello wrote:

 

Bad Rat wrote:
Did Beer butt ,, turned out good,, but want to try your rub, or whatever you use,, biggrin 

I mostly beer butt these days but occasionally I will just do 1/2s on the pit and when I do I like to use Zesty Italian Dressing and my favorite Mesquite OR Chicken Tickler rub from Williams Spice Company.  If you would like, I'll order up a couple of 12oz bottles and Pony Express them to you but only if you promise not to sick the Bomb Squad police.gifon me again rofl.giflmao.gifwinkbiggrin

 



 LMAO,,,   Now do you think I would do that?? biggrin headbang.gifshh.gifno

 That could be a big problem these days...



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Monday 25th of January 2010 10:47:56 AM

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are yall sure you aint related?

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geezer69 wrote:

are yall sure you aint related?



Brothers by different mothers,,biggrin

 



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hahaha, great minds think alike.

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we are headed to Palestine - - - "WAGONS HO!" cowboy.gif

have a great day Y'all headbang.gif

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Hey, Amigo, the Barbeque Pit Boys have a couple of recipes that look pretty good - - - check'em out http://www.barbecueweb.com/bbq_chicken/ 

I may try that "Split Chicken Recipe" real soon hungry.gif

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Back on TOPIC for a second biggrin

Picked up 5 - 2x12x10footers today and laid them in the trailer floor (see pics) - - there is about 2" left to fill, IF, I want the floor tight with no spaces between the boards, however, the feller at the lumber yard said that after that treated stuff dries there will be small cracks between each board.

SOOOOOOOOOOOO MY QUESTION IS - - - ?WOULD Y'ALL PUT A 1/2 INCH SPACE BETWEEN THE FIVE BOARDS NOW OR PUT A 2 INCH PIECE IN AND MAKE IT SOLID ALL THE WAY ACROSS?????????????????





-- Edited by Mello Yello on Wednesday 27th of January 2010 01:13:10 PM

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i like em solid but its no big deal with a small crack.if you were gona haul gravel or sand youd be in trouble with the crack or youd have to put somethin under it.ben there done that.

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With only 4 spaces, you are looking at 1/2" spaces, plus they will shrink a bit more......Go buy a 2x4, rip it and jam her in there......

-- Edited by poncho62 on Wednesday 27th of January 2010 05:05:58 PM

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GMTAthumbsup.gif - - - she's done except for some screws across the middle on each board and attaching  the rear cap piece and I'm seriously thinking about just drilling and bolting that on with some good hard bolts so the boards can be removed easier in the future (shouldn't ever have to with the treated lumber but you know??)





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lookin good mello. course we knew it would.another job well done.

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  Is that treated lumber??  looks like  regular 2x12's,,Did you go with the tappers , or alot of drilling?  biggrin  looks like  ajwd to mewink

-- Edited by Bad Rat on Wednesday 27th of January 2010 09:21:36 PM

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Bad Rat wrote:
Did you go with the tappers , or alot of drilling?  biggrin


Haven't gotten to that part yet, Amigo, and so far I haven't been able to find any self-tapping screws long enuff to do the job here in BFB - - - Lowe's in Palestine did not have them so after the Norther blows thru, I'm going to the local lumber yard and see what they have.   I do these things in stages because I'm elderly ya know winkbiggrin

 



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hahaha. i know about them stages too.this thread started in september. hahaha. your still quicker than me.

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geezer69 wrote:

hahaha. i know about them stages too.this thread started in september. hahaha. your still quicker than me.



Well if thats da case,, he's got till next Sept to get-er-done,,

some of my stages are years old,, and still in the 1st stage,,,
that way I always have somethin to do,,,

 



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Bad Rat wrote:
Well if thats da case,, he's got till next Sept to get-er-done,,
Or until we sell the place and have to move - - - hahaha
some of my stages are years old,, and still in the 1st stage,,,
that way I always have somethin to do,,,
No problem there, especially if you're married!


 



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Ain't that the truth??  we have our 30 year aniversary coming up on the 17th of feb,, If she didn't watch that damn HGTV, I would be sittin purdy, with nuttin ta do.... I recon I probably should do something special for her,, like maybe take her out to McDonalds er somethin like that,,

 damn 30 friggin years with the same ole woman,, what the hell was I thinkin??? biggrin but she must have somethin goin for her,, the 2 before her didn't last long at all,,


-- Edited by Bad Rat on Thursday 28th of January 2010 11:38:39 PM

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well bad rat. i hope your mizzis dont ever read this stuff. we would miss ya. hahaha......i take t j to the sonic. you know, where they have them fancy speakers you talk into. and you dont even have to get out of the car. now thats the only way to go. they even have a 1 dollar menue.

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Rat's a big spender so he'll probably let her "Supersize" her anniversary supper hungry.gif

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im a big spender on our versery too. i let her get 2 -1 dollar samiches. and a coke too.

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geezer69 wrote:

well bad rat. i hope your mizzis dont ever read this stuff. we would miss ya. hahaha......i take t j to the sonic. you know, where they have them fancy speakers you talk into. and you dont even have to get out of the car. now thats the only way to go. they even have a 1 dollar menue.



Good thing she can't readbiggrin[ Just kiddin] she knows its all in fun,,besides  I don't know what I would do without her,, but sure would be fun to find out,,,,, biggrin
 after being married to her for 30 Yrs,, and she hasn't kicked me out yet,, must be somethin keepin us together,, date.gif

 



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ain't it the truth? - - - - Sherry Belle and I have talked quite a bit about the fact that, if we had met when we were younger, we wouldn't have been able to stay together - - - - - funny how some aging improves one's tolerability (especially me, I was a little chit back then and should have been euthanized or locked up winkbiggrin)

BTW, speaking of Trailer Floors - - biggrinbiggrinbiggrin - - - I haven't been able to find the right screw (no jokes plez) to fasten those boards with - - - - here in BFB you don't have a lot of choices - - - - either they are too short, too skinny or wrong head no

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i have mellowed to a completely different person.lookin bach, i was a quite a mess. dang sure couldnt see that then.aint it funny how priorities change. i hope the good lord has a good sence of humor.

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geezer69 wrote:
.aint it funny how priorities change. i hope the good lord has a good sence of humor.


if'n he don't then I'm in deep poo poo biggrin

 



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i hope were judged by what we become rather than the whole picture. dang, i have alot of make up work ahead of me.

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STAGES  STAGES  STAGES - - - hahahahahaha

Here's what I have decided to do about the screw situation.

When the weather clears up a bit, I'm gonna slip the lumber back out and then drill eleven holes across the center brace.  Then I'm gonna put the boards back in place and back the trailer upon my ramps and climb under it with a drill with a nut driver and some screws that will go thru the holes in the angle iron and at least halfway into the lumber.  This will leave me a smooth floor and easy to slide thiings in and out if necessary.  Then I'll get the rear cap welded back in place and it should be as solid as the US Economy biggrin

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Mello Yello wrote:

STAGES  STAGES  STAGES - - - hahahahahaha

Here's what I have decided to do about the screw situation.

When the weather clears up a bit, I'm gonna slip the lumber back out and then drill eleven holes across the center brace.  Then I'm gonna put the boards back in place and back the trailer upon my ramps and climb under it with a drill with a nut driver and some screws that will go thru the holes in the angle iron and at least halfway into the lumber.  This will leave me a smooth floor and easy to slide thiings in and out if necessary.  Then I'll get the rear cap welded back in place and it should be as solid as the US Economy biggrin



   Before you do all that stuff ,you just said,, I will go to lowe's and get you the self tappers you need,, and trade them for that chicken enlighin stuff..

1 1/2" wood thickness + 1/8" steel thickness + little bit more,,, [ we all need a little more]

= 1 3/4, but probably will be 2"  probably need a box of 100 or more?  scouts honor,,,,,,,,  no BOMB SQUADpolice.gifpolice.gifbiggrin

This can be your excuse for sittin in front of da puter or TV a bit longer,, biggrin  Pretend you are waitin on parts,,no
DEAL ?????????????????

 





-- Edited by Bad Rat on Saturday 30th of January 2010 11:34:19 AM

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