Home Handyman

Members Login
Username 
 
Password 
    Remember Me  
Post Info TOPIC: Landscape trailer project


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:
Landscape trailer project


Yesterday, I picked up this old house trailer frame, with a whole pile "O" junk on top.......Said I could have it, but had to take it all. Dragged it home and got the junk off. I am planning on making a landscape trailer out of it, as my other trailer is just too small. I would like it to also double as a car hauler, if need be.

The frame now is 6ft x 20ft.....I plan on moving the suspension up and cutting 4 or 5 ft off the back. Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.....If anyone has a similar trailer, maybe a few measurements as to where their wheels are etc to help with the balance. I figure about 1/2 way back, as the tongue adds some weight and most of the load will be at the front.

Tomorrow, if it stops raining, I will be a grindin' and a cuttin'

Attachments
__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 5596
Date:

Can't pass up a deal like that,, even if you do have to go by the dump on the way home'
You mentioned a car trailer? what size car do you plan on hauling? a 20 ft is just the right size for a car hauler.[  unless its a small car]  I sold my rollback car trailer,, but my oldest son parks his single axle Quad trailer out back,, so I can get some measurements off of it,,

 whats the axle setback now,,[ center to center of the axles] how far to the ball location, from the front axle centerline? looks like its a long setback,, and what is the frame made out of? C channel , rect tubing,? distance between the X braces [ looks to be about 4']

__________________

Day br />http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv68/BADRAT01/
 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106336891618669151824/ALLANGLIA1BuildPictures#



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 2375
Date:

clap.gif Another good deal in the Great White North!! aww Looks like it's gonna be a dandy Poncho. I don't think that I'd shorten it at all...better too long most of the time than too short once. wink The axles look to be just a little too far to the back, just a little, but that could just be me. confuse Heh,heh.


EDIT>> Just as I clicked "submit" I remembered a fella around here who had a wagon darn near 'zactly like that one. He used it for light deliveries, mostly "baby barns"...he had a boat winch at the front and used it and a Jackall to load and unload. Worked pretty slick. aww

-- Edited by Come On on Thursday 22nd of October 2009 03:40:42 PM

__________________

Glitter Text Maker



Anything worth doing is worth overdoing !


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

I dont think I would put a big car or truck on it.....I figure 15-16 ft would be fine plus 4ft for the tongue.....Thing is, it's too long now for my landscape stuff....and that will be its main purpose. It has "C" channel on the sides and I will add a few more cross braces. The wheels defiantly have to come forward some anyway. It has pretty heavy axles....and electric trailer brakes....I pulled a wheel today and they look in good shape.

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 9419
Date:

daggone nice score, Poncho, and a great price too biggrin

I'm kinda with Trev on shortening it - - - you never know when you might need that extra length and as long as the length was not a problem pulling around and parking it on locations then why not leave her at 20 feet??

Is it gonna have a cage around it??



__________________

"Life is a Poem - - it has Rhyme and Reason" author: Me



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 141
Date:

Cool...funny thing, that looks exactly like the frame under my 24' travel trailer....that I'm thinking about tossing the "travel" part and building a car trailer.

The trailer I use now is my fathers, it started life as a travel trailer too, but his is alot shorter (14' I think) I was able to fit my old '84 Ford F150 on it to take it to the scrap yard but it was real tight, a little too tight but I only had to go south a couple of country blocks.

I've heard that you center a single axel 1" back from center when setting them up, but I don't know how that translates to a dual axel.\

Are there brakes on both axels? Mine does so I imagine yours does too.

When my father built his (it was half built when he got it) he used channel at each end to hold down the PT deck boards for the floor.
He hauls his Ford 8N and 420 John Deere on it all the time and it handles them both very well. The heaviest car I have every had on it was probably an old '54 Merc (the one that almost killed my in the other thread)...once I turned the car around, engine forward, it handled great. Point of this drivel is to say that your frame and axels should have a good capacity for whatever you plan to do with it.

__________________
Owning a home..is like a second job.


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

Brakes on both axles..15 in tires.....It is 20ft, plus 4 ft for the tongue now, so it may be the same as yours. I would imagine that the frames were pretty much the same no matter what make. I will take some pics of the axles tomorrow......

I am going to stop by a trailer place and measure up their landscape and car trailers.

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 5596
Date:

I measured my sons trailer,, it is  custom built by some guy that builds them to sell,
It is a single axle ,, 18'8" overall, including the tongue, wheels set back from ball to wheel center line is 12'3" and from center of wheel to end f trailer is 6'6"

so actually the wheels are set back aprox 2/3 of overall legnth. double axle would be centered between the axles,, the tongue is 4' to the bed,, width is 7' plus the width of the fenders, bit over 8' total

He uses this for hauling his 4 quads, but I used it to haul a big load of lumber and it towed great,,

__________________

Day br />http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv68/BADRAT01/
 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106336891618669151824/ALLANGLIA1BuildPictures#



Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

Makes sense.....I guess, in theory, you want just over 1/2 the weight on the front....so you have enough tongue weight, but not too much to overload the truck. Like I said, I am going to go do some measuring too.....

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 491
Date:

Here's the scoop on my car trailer:

Overall length:  19' 3" nose to tail

Axle to axle distance 42"

Deck length 14'

Tongue length 5'  (the extra 3" of overall length are in the ramp hook extensions if you are adding this all up...)

Front axle is set back 5' 5" from the forward end of the deck.


My trailer is well enough balanced to not even need a jack to support the front when it is sitting on a flat parking place and is empty (like that ever happens around here...frustrated.gif )

Any more questions, just ask....


If curious for a "quick look" at what I have, check my project journal at HR.com since I couldn't seem to delete them from there....


In a while, Chet.

__________________
Why is there never enough time to do it right once, but always time to do it a second time?

If I don't drive you to drinkin', it's because the gas tank is empty.....


Check out my forum at   http://schnitz.activeboard.com/


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

Thanks Chet....Looking at this picture, your axles seem quite far apart....How was that for turning?

11150711450.jpg

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 5596
Date:

schnitz wrote:





Deck length 14'


Front axle is set back 5' 5" from the forward end of the deck
***********************************************


ALMOST 2/3 setback   with a tandem axle




 



__________________

Day br />http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv68/BADRAT01/
 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106336891618669151824/ALLANGLIA1BuildPictures#



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 5596
Date:

poncho62 wrote:

Thanks Chet....Looking at this picture, your axles seem quite far apart....How was that for turning?

11150711450.jpg



I would say,, that causes the tires to drag sidways when turning,

 here are a few ,


 Notice the location of the axles, especally the tripple 5 th wheel. the distance from the goose neck to the wheels, the center wheel is about 2/3  distance from the Goose neck


This should help ya out http://steampunkworkshop.com/trailer.shtml





-- Edited by Bad Rat on Friday 23rd of October 2009 01:33:21 AM

Attachments
__________________

Day br />http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv68/BADRAT01/
 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106336891618669151824/ALLANGLIA1BuildPictures#



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 491
Date:

I "drag" the tires a good bit when I'm making tight turns, but overall, I'd say this one is set up just about perfect for me.  I do have to be kinda careful with trailer sway and improper loading.  Mear inches too far forward or back make a HUGE difference with that one.  The picture you put up is a bit deceptive too in that the truck was sitting half in a ditch and the tractor looks so big.   It traveled dead straight just like you see it in the picture, though.  IIRC, I crossed the scale at TF Agri-Service with that trip and it was near 7,000 lbs. behind a 4,500 lb truck with no electric brakes...  (Yes, I was a bit nuts!!!)


In a while, Chet.

__________________
Why is there never enough time to do it right once, but always time to do it a second time?

If I don't drive you to drinkin', it's because the gas tank is empty.....


Check out my forum at   http://schnitz.activeboard.com/


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 4169
Date:

poncho, your quite the horse trader. i can think of alot of things you could do with a 20'er. i wonder what weight ratin them axels are?

__________________
born with nothin....still got most of it...


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

Thanks for that link Bill.....Looking at it, I may go the same route as that guy and shorten the front........will also have to take a bit off the back, but I have to cut that bumper etc off anyways.

Here's a couple of pics of the axles.....I figure they are 3500# axles, as an older  24 ft trailer is well above 5000# empty.

The last pic shows how I dispose of the old wood from this thing......got the last of it this morning. All I have left to throw out is some PCV drain piping and the 2 plastic waste tanks.

I am also debating whether to "bobtail" the back a bit.



Attachments
__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 5596
Date:

You got a rip roaring blaze goin there poncho,, We have a weird burn rule here,, they say its ok to burn,, but DEQ [dept of environmental quality ]  says ya can't make any smokeconfuseconfuseconfuse kinda like the electric cigrettes,,

 The frame rails are channel, turned with the open side out,, easier to weld in the X braces I guess, should still be strong enough for a med sized car,
I would guess those axles are 3500 # ers plenty strong,,

Gonna have a nice winter project huh?



__________________

Day br />http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv68/BADRAT01/
 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106336891618669151824/ALLANGLIA1BuildPictures#



Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

I have heard that they have some fire codes here, but no one bothers me....I have a fire pit too.

The piece of channel that I cut out, I am going to weld on the inside across the joint....That should give it good strength........

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 141
Date:

I was out looking at my trailer a few minutes ago thinking about what I would do...

I would think that the ratio that it is set up right now would be correct for other purposes as well...meaning if the axles where located 60% of the way back from front now, then after I shortened it they should still located 60% back...

So basically ya, what you said Poncho..take some off the front and back.

I'm makin' no sense...long week.

__________________
Owning a home..is like a second job.


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 141
Date:

BTW, That frame looks virtually identical to mine...same jack, propane tank mounts, white paint, contruction etc....only mine has the wide 5 type hubs and rims. Mine is an '84 Terry Taurus.

__________________
Owning a home..is like a second job.


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

Spent about 4 hrs this morning shortening the frame at the front. Took 4ft out.....Cut it off with a reciprocating saw, butted it up, welded it. I then took 2 ft of the frame I cut out and bolted that to the inside of the joint....Not that I don't trust my welding, but better safe than sorry.  I am going to leave the back at the length it is. I am also going to bobtail the last foot....Makes easier for loading stuff. Gotta track down some square tubing etc to make some side rails.....going to make that removable, for when I want to haul a car.

Overall length is 20 ft from the ball to the back bumper, which I will cut off, so it will have 16 ft of load area.

-- Edited by poncho62 on Sunday 25th of October 2009 01:27:15 PM

Attachments
__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 9419
Date:

Nice, ain't much grass that grows under your feet are there? - - winkbiggrin
It would take me two weeks to get that much done but, hell, I'm old yawn

Good work - - so what type floor??  wood or metal??

__________________

"Life is a Poem - - it has Rhyme and Reason" author: Me



Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

I think I am going to go with pressure treated wood......Would love to have checker plate steel, but its pretty expensive. ..I wonder if deck boards will be thick enough....2x10s probably better.

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 4169
Date:

yep,2x10's or 2x12's. much better than a 2x6's.

__________________
born with nothin....still got most of it...


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 2375
Date:

Good lookin' work there Poncho. clap.gif  Those joints look plenty strong. All of this trailer talk has reminded me that I have one. blush.gif Well, I told ya that my memory is shot from the meds. ashamed disbelief It's 8'x14' enclosed space and been sittin' at my buddy's place for almost 2 years. It's a good wagon, has electric brakes, tandem axles...I bought it cheap and never used it (confuse maybe it's been 3 years). Anyway, the enclosed part was homemade and not great. It was pretty much done for. I'm gonna hafta get Grizz to take me to see if it's still there. I could knock that enclosed part off and have a pretty good flat-wagon.

I can't believe that I forgot about that. disbelief You'll be able to cruise those auctions north of the 401 and drag lotsa treasures home with that Poncho. wink Ever been to Campbellford? They used to run a weekly auction just outside of town there that was usually loaded with good stuff.



__________________

Glitter Text Maker



Anything worth doing is worth overdoing !


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

No...never been there....I am way west of there. Lots of junk out this way to drag home too....lol

I cut the back bumper off today and welded in a few more cross members.......Tomorrow, I will probably have a go at bobtailing the back a bit.

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 2375
Date:

confuse  I'm not completely understanding what you mean by "bobtail". hmm To me, bobtail means a big truck goin' down the road with no trailer (tractor trailer without the trailer). imslow.gif Could ya please explain what your bobtail means? confuse

__________________

Glitter Text Maker



Anything worth doing is worth overdoing !


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:



Maybe, I have the wrong term........What I want to do is slope the back foot or so of the deck down a bit so that it is easier to load.........like the trailer that Bad Rat was showing above with the coupe on it.

tn-594464?AWSAccessKeyId=1XXJBWHKN0QBQS6TGPG2&Expires=1257379200&Signature=GYAN42O%2FNtd%2B39v4KkQZC9qE%2F3w%3D

-- Edited by poncho62 on Monday 26th of October 2009 04:21:56 PM

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 4169
Date:

dove tail.

__________________
born with nothin....still got most of it...


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 9419
Date:

geezer69 wrote:
dove tail.


BINGO - - da Geeze has nailed it headbang.gif

 



__________________

"Life is a Poem - - it has Rhyme and Reason" author: Me



Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

You mean Bob doesn't have a tail?.............lol

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 5596
Date:

geezer69 wrote:

dove tail.



I thought a dovetail was what you used to splice wood joints together

http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&rlz=1T4GGLL_en___US344&q=dovetail+trailer&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=9zHmSp_PJ4OqswP0wMWwBA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CCQQsAQwAw


But AHHHHA Google,,, myfavorite link getter


 



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Monday 26th of October 2009 06:38:05 PM

__________________

Day br />http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv68/BADRAT01/
 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106336891618669151824/ALLANGLIA1BuildPictures#



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 9419
Date:

THE GEEZER RULES biggrin

__________________

"Life is a Poem - - it has Rhyme and Reason" author: Me



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 2375
Date:

Nope. Bob doesn't have a tail. aww We call that "dovetail" here too and if it moves (usually with hydraulics) we call 'em "beaver tail". confuse Strange huh? Wonder why we don't just call 'em "sloped tail"? ...and "movin' sloped tail"? hmm aww

__________________

Glitter Text Maker



Anything worth doing is worth overdoing !


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

Dovetailed the frame yesterday.........Cut a "V" notch and pushed it down, then rewelded it.....Only drops it a couple of inches, but that's enough.  I also built a holder for my ramps out of the old rear bumper........keeps them out of the way.

I went today and priced pressure treated 2x10's for the deck....going to be almost $200 to cover the whole thing. Was talking to a guy yesterday that has some checker plate steel. Not sure if he has enough to do the whole deck.......I am wondering about the extra weight too...that stuff is pretty heavy. What do you guys think?


Attachments
__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 2375
Date:

clap.gif Lookin' mighty shnazzy there Poncho! thumbsup.gif That "dovetail" aww may seem slight but it'll make plenty of difference when ya need it. Really impressed with the bulkhead ramp holder...good job. I'd use the wood deck if it were my call. It's not as slippery, much easier to tie certain loads on (if ya gotta nail blockin' on), wood is quieter when rollin'...I had a few more that I forget too. confuse I guess my point is that I like the wood. To be honest, I doubt that I'd spend the extra on pressure treated though. If the "regular" is considerably cheaper I'd definately go that way. I may even stain it all purrtypainter.gif , but if not I'd give it a good dose of Thompson's Water Seal or somethin' similar. Are ya gonna put any d-ring tie-downs on it? Do you use ratchet straps or chain and binders or both? confuse Dammit I'm nosey, huh?

__________________

Glitter Text Maker



Anything worth doing is worth overdoing !


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 9419
Date:

AJWD, Boss, I'm with Trev on the wood floor and for all the same reasons. 

__________________

"Life is a Poem - - it has Rhyme and Reason" author: Me



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 491
Date:

From past experience, I would really watch loading a car of any sort on ramps like those (not sure how heftily those are constructed by the pictures...).  My full solid steel ramps bow a little every time I load a car on, so expanded may not be the best option there.  Just my $.02....


In a while, Chet.


Oh yea, my vote goes wood too.  And when deciding yes or no on pressure treated, think about how well you plan to preserve it.  If you take decent care of it, untreated will likely outlast the rest of the trailer.

__________________
Why is there never enough time to do it right once, but always time to do it a second time?

If I don't drive you to drinkin', it's because the gas tank is empty.....


Check out my forum at   http://schnitz.activeboard.com/


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 9419
Date:

schnitz wrote:
If you take decent care of it, untreated will likely outlast the rest of the trailer.


winkbiggrin not in Texas it won't - - unless you keep it under cover all the time that is biggrin

 



__________________

"Life is a Poem - - it has Rhyme and Reason" author: Me



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 4169
Date:

presure treated, as wide of a board as possible.like a 2x12 or 2x10. like what you did with the ramps and dove tail.

__________________
born with nothin....still got most of it...


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

The ramps are 1 1/2 square tubing .........I have put the lawn tractors on them with no problem....no car yet, will have to see how they hold up.

Pressure treated 2x10x16 ft are $24 each...I will need 7

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 491
Date:

poncho62 wrote:

The ramps are 1 1/2 square tubing .........I have put the lawn tractors on them with no problem....no car yet, will have to see how they hold up.

Pressure treated 2x10x16 ft are $24 each...I will need 7



Slight weight difference poncho, Myself, I'd weld in a couple of angle iron supports on the underside of the expanded metal just to be a bit safer.


If you can get the plate steel at a decent price (or maybe even free knowing your luck...), why not run a couple of treated boards on each side edge (say a 2 by 10 and a 2 by 6), then use the plate steel down the middle?

 

 

In a while, Chet.



__________________
Why is there never enough time to do it right once, but always time to do it a second time?

If I don't drive you to drinkin', it's because the gas tank is empty.....


Check out my forum at   http://schnitz.activeboard.com/


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 141
Date:

When my dad built his trailer (same idea as yours) he added a few cross members and used PT deck boards...they are 5/4" x 6"...or whatever the size is....just over an inch thick but they call them 5/4 or something.

Anyway, theey have been on there at least 5 years, carried small tractors, cars, trucks, heaps of crap and never had a problem...the supports underneath make a world of difference.


__________________
Owning a home..is like a second job.


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 5596
Date:

  If your X members are 4' on center,, I would put some extra members in there.. My son's trailer has 24"on  center X braces,, and they used 2X 6 nontreated lumber,, for decking,  but only screwed to every other brace [ 4' on center] and when going down the road,, the trailer flexed and bounced, we screwed down the deck to the other X members that were missed, and its much more stable now,, and his frame rails and X members are 2X 4 Rect tubing,, 3/16 th wall,,, the channel rails are much more flemsy,, but should be ok with enough bracing,

 A travel trailer is built to be light weight, not to carry any type of heavy load like a car, or big tractor,, Maybe a few cross braces under the mesh on the ramps,, to prevent anything with narrow tires from pushing through the mesh,,,,,

 doing a Danged nice job tho Poncho,, Personally I think I would go with the wood deck,, treated or not,, if you are worried about it being slick when wet,, just add a little silica sand to the paint or stain. or sealer you put on it..


Ok,,, Inspection is over,,, carry on with the good work,,  biggrinbiggrinbiggrin



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Thursday 29th of October 2009 12:52:49 PM

__________________

Day br />http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv68/BADRAT01/
 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106336891618669151824/ALLANGLIA1BuildPictures#



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 4169
Date:

you got that rite.them supports under the boards are all the strength.the 5/4 isnt a bad idea. i just allways use the wide 2x treated stuff. it will proly out last alot of us. hahaha

__________________
born with nothin....still got most of it...


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 5596
Date:

poncho62 wrote:

The ramps are 1 1/2 square tubing .........I have put the lawn tractors on them with no problem....no car yet, will have to see how they hold up.

Pressure treated 2x10x16 ft are $24 each...I will need 7



Regular boards would be less tha half that, then throw on some sealer or paint before you put em on and you are good to go,,
I assume you will screw the boards down,, and around here a box of self tappers are 25$ for about a 5 # box,, and that would be cutting it close,,

 Got enough advice here,, don't ya,, to bad there aint anybody there to help ya with the grunt work, just lip flappers,,,biggrin

 



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Thursday 29th of October 2009 01:05:47 PM

__________________

Day br />http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv68/BADRAT01/
 

https://picasaweb.google.com/106336891618669151824/ALLANGLIA1BuildPictures#



Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

I was thinking about the 5/4 boards, but I think the price would be about the same as 2x whatever.....and I would prefer wider boards.....less screwing (not that screwing is a bad thing....lol)

I have cross braces at the 4ft centers........plus what other ones are there, so if I did go with sheets of wood or metal, it is good to go. The cross members I have added are also much heavier angle iron...Likr Rat said, the originals are quite thin, not there to support a lot of weight. I am going to add as much as I can get steel for.

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 141
Date:

A friend has a car trailer with check plate steel on it...and when it's wet it is pretty slippery, I'd say much more than my fathers wood floor.

I'm watching carefully because I think I'm gonna cut my trailer up and do the same thing.

Question....would it even be wide enough between the wheels to fit a car?

__________________
Owning a home..is like a second job.


Administrator

Status: Offline
Posts: 2158
Date:

My frame rails are 68 in, outside to outside......it is about 74 in between the tires.......I figure a Nova, Chevelle would fit.

__________________

http://ontariorodders.activeboard.com/



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 64
Date:

As far as the wood flooring goes, I have "Stem Panels" that I use in my trailers and temporary flooring for parking projects and work areas on the dirt.
Come on knows what I'm talking about. They're the form boards for pouring stem walls in the concrete business.
They appear pricey at first until you figure the square footage they'll provide. I only recommend them because I've slammed backhoe buckets into them while loading a back hoe and they take the punishment and last forever. Oil stains and all.
Used ones in great shape can be purchased at a contractor's supply store very reasonable.

__________________
1 2  >  Last»  | Page of 2  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.



Create your own FREE Forum
Report Abuse
Powered by ActiveBoard