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Post Info TOPIC: propane heat


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propane heat


I have a propane wall heater, and a small propane range that I would like to use in  our summer kitchen, and would like to run them off a small tank (camp trailer size). I haven't actually tried the range, but it came out of an old trailer, so I'm assuming... The wall heater, however, came from the garage of a house supplied by a king-size tank (yes, propane, not natural gas). My problem is, the heater won't stay lit. Its peizo-lit, and fires right up, but then, as soon as the unit runs awhile, about the time the fan kicks on, it goes out. Are these things supposed to run at a higher pressure than BBQ grilles? Thats where I got the reg. that I used... should I find an adjustable regulator, or is there something else wrong? I thought that maybe it was too cold for the gas to vaporize, so, as a test, I placed an electric heater facing the tank. It worked for a while, 'til  I got paranoid and shut it off. Seemed a little crazy. But it showed that a boost in pressure helped. Is the pressure in whole-house propane systems unregulated? Recommendations?

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Guru

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You might find some information here
http://gashosesandregulators.com/propaneregulatorfacts.html

I would be real careful about using that unit that goes out when the fan starts,, make damn sure the gas isn't still flowing when it goes out,, that could be a HUGE Blast that you don't want,,

REminds me of a joke,, someone asked what a BTU was, and how it worked as a rating for heat,,
the answer is ,, a BTU is rated by how many  It Takes To warm a BUT  as big as a TUBnoconfuse

-- Edited by Bad Rat on Monday 29th of November 2010 11:12:59 PM

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Thanks SO much! Thats exactly the reference material I was lookin' for. And no. I'm actually pretty paranoid about gas...the heater has a working thermocouple and everything. This wall heater actually is too big for this ap, but we'll see... I may have to put separate regulators on each appliance. Thanks again.

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Test for millivolts. Without a schematic, I really can't say for sure, but the fan kicking on and the fire going out at the same time tells me that you have a snap switch inline. The switch will be in a spot where, when the unit warms up, it opens the cicuit and enables the fan to come on, this is so the unit doesn't blow cold air. When the switch opens, it will cause the millivolts to drop, this coming from your thermocouple or thermopile. Your thermopile or couple should read 300-500 millivolts. Some units will have multiple couplers to provide enough millivolts to operate the system.   A weak thermocouler/thermopile will not provide enough millivolts to keep the valve open. The pressure should be regulated by the valve. Try to find a schematic, there may be a switch for the fan, one for overheating, close to the flue, and possibly a switch for a drafting proble. If the unit, while testing, had one of these switches, it would shut down also,this switch would have to be hot to insure the spent gasses were venting properly.  All/Any of these switches will work off the millivolts from the thermocoupler/thermopile, they do go bad or can weaken. Some have the multiplie couplers to kick the millivolts up, switches needing more millivolts will also shut a unit down quicker in case of failure.

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sounds to me like the thermo-coupler - - - man I have had headaches with mine in my central heat unit no

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Member

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I've actually got the thing working. It was low gas pressure to the unit. All systems work perfectly now. I had tried to use a preset regulator in my initial lash-up. My neighbor Bob came over, and after installing a variable regulator, and some minor adjustments, we were OK. Now, my big issue is COST OF OPERATION. The 'shack is so leaky, I can only get 16-20 hrs out of a 5-gal tank. Good thing I'm not living out there! Well, yet, anyway.... I would really like to get the building tighter, but there's more major mods to come (and hopefully this spring/summer) and I'd just have to re-do later... Thanks to everybody who posted to this thread. Problem solved!

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Guru

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As far as better insulating a pretty economical place to "start" is around the doors and windows.  It doesn't cost much and is pretty easy to do and then you can deal with the larger issues as time and money permits.

Good Luck

meller

-- Edited by Mello Yello on Tuesday 18th of January 2011 12:09:39 PM

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