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Post Info TOPIC: Washer drain question


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Washer drain question


I would like to install a washer in my basement. My main sanatary invert is 3'-8" .  I have attached a drawing of the capped drain i would like to use.I have a few questions.

1. Is the washer designed to pump to an elevation somewhere higher than my disharge say 4'-8"?

2. Is thsi to close to the main discharge in respect to elevation?

3. Would this be to code?

4. Can I use a discharge pump if the above doesnt work?

 

WASHER-1.jpg 



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WT


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prh44 wrote:

1. Is the washer designed to pump to an elevation somewhere higher than my disharge say 4'-8"?

 

 


 Pump HP = GPM x Head in feet/3956 and for a pump that is 50% efficient you'd need to double this HP number.  From the formula, doubling the height will halve the GPM.

For precise answers taking into account pump efficiencies try the Engineering Toolbox site or pump manufacturers' sites.

A Web search should tell you the typical hp of washing machine motors and using this hp number, another search should give the cutoff height in feet for pump/motor combos.   The Grainger online catalog is a good reference for this.

Excellent drawing!



-- Edited by WT on Sunday 22nd of January 2012 12:53:45 PM



-- Edited by WT on Sunday 22nd of January 2012 12:55:20 PM



-- Edited by WT on Sunday 22nd of January 2012 12:56:22 PM

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I would think that your Washer would pump the water ok,, but I would be concerned that the water would drain back into your washer,and the water from the upper floors would also drain down , those p-traps will stop any odor, but not drainback,,

 all I really know about plumbing is that water flows down hill. and thats definately down hill,,

maybe a flap valve inline between the main line and the washer would stop the drainback,, but the water left in the line between the washer pump and valve would stay full all the time,,

does this make sense at all?



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I think your washer would pump out to the height of 4' 8" with no problem but, as Bad Rat mentioned, I would be more concerned with the 3' 7 7/8" level of your sanitary drain than anything.  The back flow of the drain when it's pumping out may exceed the input.  That is only about a foot of difference there and I'm wondering ???????if you could raise the height of the washer about 6" and then also raise the height of the 4' 8" a couple more feet??????????  Is there anyway you can fabricate a quick proto-type and check it out first?  Maybe let the proto-type just empty into the bathtub to see if it works at "all" those levels and dimensions????????????????

F.Y.I. - all of the question marks just means that I'm just guessing here??????????

Also, I think that it should maintain a downward flow from the top of the drain tube into the sanitary drain with no kind of low spot or p-trap in the line.

Well that's my ?guess? and be sure and let us know what you come up with, OK?

BTW, welcome to the Forum - - - - - it can get kinda lonesome here but we have a fun moments also.



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Yes, I agree that the back flow might be a problem......I also have a bathroom in my basement, so I have one of those sewage pump things in a sump in the floor that pumps it up to the septic outlet

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WT


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Using 1/2 hp, 50% efficient and a 4' head, GPM = ~250 so washing machines must use a flow restrictor or use lower power when draining. Drains are probably designed to handle less than 15 GPM, which is what most city water can deliver.

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The pump on the machine is mounted on the bottom frame of the machine. so that means that it will be at ALMOST floor level,, and will constantly be full of water up to the 4'8" level,  and also the water from upstairs will be overflowing into your basement when water from upstairs runs into the drain, if you tie into the drain at that point,,

a back flow flapper valve is the only way this can work,, even then its questionable,

 I'm thinking the pump on the machine needs to be above the drain point,

meaning the washer needs to be mounted on the wall  no and a stairway to get to it,, (  this is intended to be a smart azz remark,,) stick around the handy man show, for a while and you will be entertained wellbiggrin

THIS IS ONLY MY OPINION

 

 

 



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Monday 23rd of January 2012 12:38:27 PM

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I have my washing machine set up EXACTLY like your drawing, except mine is pumping out HIGHER than your's is. My washing machine hose is a loose fit (1 1/2" O.D. hose inserted into a 2" PVC pipe) into the drain pipe, so it CAN NOT syphone water from the trap, back into the washing machine. Where you show the trap connecting into the main sewer drain, I had a threaded clean out plug. I replaced that with a threaded pipe reducer so I could still remove it for clean out if necessary. That is important! Is this kind of set up to code? I have no idea at all, but I needed it to work, and it has been working ok for over 10 years. With the threaded pipe reducer, I can return it to what it was before in under 5 minutes with just a large pair of pliers.

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