Just want an opinion from you guys....I have an 8ft (95") picture window in the living room, overlooks the back patio.....I am going to take it out and put in a sliding door amd build a deck.....House is frame with vinyl siding.....I dont want to mess around with drywall etc, so the ideal thing to do is put in an 8ft (94 1/2) wide patio door set.....I didnt think they are available, thought just 5' and 6'....but, they are. Got a few prices and it looks like about $1200 for the door. A 6 footer runs about $750, but I figure by the time we messed with drywall, siding etc, I would be looking at about the same.....Downside to me is, a 4 ft door is a pretty big sliding door, wonder how heavy it is?...I imagine that its on pretty good rollers, as it comes with a 20 year warrenty....
Just wondering what you guys think about it.
A 8' patio slider is gonna be a little difficult to find, unless you have one custom made with the extra glass on each side,$$$$$$$$ but you could get a framed 12"x 72 framed side window and put next to the slider on each side,, but I think that would be hodge podge mess,, you need 3' side windows insted of 2'
heres a 8ft'r http://www.thehouseofwindows.com/8_Sliding_Glass_Patio_Doors_s/96.htm
Day br />http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv68/BADRAT01/
Sounds like you've gota plan and a good one, Harry. I took down a sliding glass shower door one time and it had some "omph" to it for sure and a patio door should be even "omphier" I would think
However the bottom line with all of this is
"if it is a tool and has a wooden handle, the chances are pretty good that it runs on man power and not gasoline!"
We had an eight footer in one of our houses, and once you got used to it, it didn't seem too heavy, and the wide opening was quite nice. We have a five footer in this house, and it is too small to have one of those "in the track" pet door things, and for me to get my big self outside; I have to take the pet door thing out when I want to go out back. If you can get an eight, I don't think you'll regret it.
poncho62 wrote:Both places I have asked have had an 8 footer available......and about at that same price in your link Bill.....My guy is looking into another source that has 6 ft doors with a small side window on each side...He says they snap together somehow and form one big panel....Either way, thats what we are doing
Both places I have asked have had an 8 footer available......and about at that same price in your link Bill.....My guy is looking into another source that has 6 ft doors with a small side window on each side...He says they snap together somehow and form one big panel....Either way, thats what we are doing
Thats the way I did the bay window when I changed the small garage into a lofted room and put in a 8' bay window in place of the garage door,,that had the side windows all snap together with vinyl pieces,, makes it real convient to be able to remove the window to get furniture in or out,
Woo Hoo finally gonna get to wind this one up, eh Harry?
I know you'll enjoy it once it's in - - - good luck !
Got it installed today...Man, a 8 ft door is heavy, even with the slider panel not in it. Wifey took a few pics while we worked and slapped them all over Facebook........
LOL...got last 2 pics backwards, didnt have to take it back out
-- Edited by poncho62 on Tuesday 25th of September 2012 03:48:33 PM
looks great Poncho,, like maybe it was made to go there? little bit of sheetrock work, and some trim and you're good to go,
is that a 12"x 12" acoustic tile ceiling, don't see that much anymore,,,
Yep...12x12 tile.....The old farm house was renovated many years ago. Ceiling is in good shape, so it stays....lolI got away with putting double trim at the top of the door. looks good and the vertical blinds cover it most of the time anywaysStupid dog is seeing its reflection in the door, barks at itself......dummy....lol
Now I have to redo siding on the outside. Its pretty crappy, but I cant afford to put new siding up at this time. Then, finish the deck. I think I am going to put a roof on it. The sun beats in there pretty good in the afternoon(west side of house), could use the shade. I want to use some sort of removeable fabric that I can put over the beams
that turned out really nice poncho,,, good job,,, nice deck,, and is that a hot tub in the Gazabo out back? nude sunbathing anyone???
Yep, that turned out sweet. Very nice work, there. I am sure you will appreciate that big opening, too, when you go in and out; only problem with the big opening is it lets in more air if ya' leave it open all the way, and more bugs, too. But you won't be doing that very much.
We have to replace this five foot door we have, and I am seriously considering re-framing the wall for a six footer if we opt for another slider; if we go for inswing french doors, the five foot opening will be livable. I also want to find a door with true divided lites, and want to install a pet door in one of the lower corner lites. Most of the new doors on the market, now, are double or triple pane, one piece insulated glass assemblies; can't sneak a small pet flapper into one of them.
Finished up the siding and the railings for the deck.......Was planning on putting a roof on it, but cant get enough slope. Next spring I am going to look into one of those retractable awnings.
enough slope?? meaning that the deck height is too high in comparison the the roof height, to get enough slope from the eve for drainage? insted of securing the new cover to the edge of the eve,, you could move it further up the roof, and gain some slope,,, but you would have to leave openings where you attach it to the roof for runoff water to continue down to the gutters, and seal off the attachment areas to prevent leaks in the roof, OR just make the new roof freestanding.. by attaching it to 4 posts,, and eliminate attaching it to the roof at all,,, ( posts closest to the house would raise the roof up above the eves)
does any of this make sense?
If shade is all you're after, have you considered those roofs that are made from 1 x 6 lumber and slanted so as to provide shade but will allow the rain and snow to fall thru. A lot of greenhouses down in this area use them so they can take advantage of the rain fall (that is, if it ever rains again) I'll see if I can find a pic
This is kinda what I'm talking about but I've seen them done with longer spans without so much complicated cross bracing.Since the deck is separate from the house, you could also consider a gabled roof that had a 3/12 slope to each side of the deck, however, this would leave a slight space between the roof of the house and unless you had gutters what runs off the roof there would run onto the deck. That may not be a big deal - - - I don't know. I think the gable would look cool if done properly and it wouldn't drain toward the house either.OK, I'll S'hup nowmeller
Hi Poncho,We were wondering how you are liking your 8ft slider? How is it with the colder weather? We found this post because we want to install a sliding glass door in place of an existing 8 ft window and we have the same question that it sounds like you had. We would be ok with a 6ft door, but do not have any matching siding, and we would also rather not deal with filling in the gap. Your pictures look great. I've attached a picture of the existing window, and I will try to remember to post a picture once we install a door.Thanks,Bill
Just like I always say when I go to the mail box,,,oh its just another "Bill" welcome Bill.. I am also a Bill, but most everybody here calls me a RAT, interesting group here,, a bunch of old farts killin time and tellin lies,, but we have fun,, sometimes ya need some hip boots to survive, but just remember IT's all in fun,,
Hi Poncho and Everyone
Here is an interior view of the same window during the day so you can see the backyard as well.
And, below is the exterior view. The future door location is highlighted ( I just attached an updated image with the highlighted future door). We are not sure what we are going to do outside the door, but we are open to suggestions. It's about 14 inches from the bottom of the door to the ground.
Also, we just purchased this home in Jan.
Thanks for all of the resonses and dialouge. Hopefully I can contribute toward others' questions as well, and not just receive from the wealth of wisdom.
Be real careful when you do your cutdown - you can't tell just where that wiring runs through there; actually, you should remove the drywall or the siding inside the limits of the cutdown to see if that wire does run through there. Moving it is not much of a deal if you have fairly good electrical skills; access in the attic area above the window/door is handy, too, and the biggest challenge is fishing the new Romex up through the wall into the attic, and then back down on the other side without cutting holes in the wall. I am sure you will appreciate the eight foot door, though (see my comments earlier in this thread).
Yes that plastic is "stopping the bleeding" as the air pours through there without it. Good to hear that your 8 ft is not really cold. I want to get a good u-rating door for sure. Lools like the door manufacture that you used is in Canada so might not be practical for us.
And, yes, there is a slope ... planning now to put a small platform just outside the door and provide steps off that on the left and right ... and if needed, small railing straight ahead since that is a flower bed over there near the tree.
Thanks for the feedback ... This is all very helpful.
Mornin Bill Nice home,, just a wild idea here,,,,,The sidewalk along the house looks to be pretty narrow, and placing a step under the door would take-up most of that walkway, ( width wise) and you would be stepping onto dirt insted of concrete,,, you could build a "RAMP" style wood, walkway over the sidewalk , running at the same elevation as the siding, and put the stepdown at the end of the house, and bevel it to die into the patio pad so there is no step down at the patio, and could also make it a wider walkway,, if you choose, and cover the lower foundation area,,,
I guess you could call it a landing,, I was thinking a wooden walkway that is even with the concrete deck ( might have to back cut the first board as to not have a toe catcher where it starts at the concrete deck) then follows the bottom of the lowest piece of siding to the far ( left in the picture) end of the house,,with a step down there, which I think would be about 8" or less,,
Bill stated that the distance from the concrete was 14" to the bottom of the door,,that is too high for a single step, ( typical steps are 8") ,, 8" is about the same as the width of the siding, so build a wooden sidewalk, any width you want over the concrete walkway, ( which looks to be about 18" to 20" wide)
If you just built a 2 step platform under the door, most likely you would be stepping off onto the dirt instead of much concrete 2 steps with equals 16" at 8" wide
and walking from the deck past the new door steps, to the other corner of the house would mean you would have to walk in the dirt,,, why not just build a walkway the full legnth of the house with 1 step down at the end
clear as mud I know
Hey,Responding to a few posts here ... thanks for the feedback.Poncho, yes, we agree that that other wall would be a good spot for a door onto the patio. But, we do not want to lose another wall inside that dining room. We might do a garden window in the future so we can at least see out there - plus that side of the house gets the sun all day long.Bad Rat, a ramp should work there. We are going to keep knocking idea around for out there, but in the end, we will have to do something beyond that path so that we have something to step out into other than mulch and dirt! As you said, a wider walkway might work out. And, if ok, I'm going to post one more picture here of the exterior wall that Poncho suggested a sliding glass door in. But, I'm posting this to ask if anyone has experience with removing dead vines that are stuck to aluminum siding? My plan is to mix TSP with warm water and keep these "barnacles" moist for a while, then try to scrape them. Any other ideas? Apologies for posting this here since it is unrealted to the door ... if this should be moved to a new post, or elsewhere, no problem.
Mello Yello wrote: Use a plastic or soft wooden scraper and you should be OK.meller
Use a plastic or soft wooden scraper and you should be OK.meller
Maybe like a plastic applicator for Body filler,, or a medum stiff nylon brissle brush,,, Ammonia or bleach and dish soap mixture ,usually works pretty well to kill stuff like that,,, vines are a real nusence up here,, especally the ivy type
Here are some during and after photos of the 8ft door. There was no electric under the window which made things go more quickly. And, we've only added 2 small "temporary" steps with treated lumber to get out of the door - hope to add a small deck someday.
Good looking door, nice work. Glad you avoided the wiring bugaboo; had a remodel contractor call me one time to move the wiring for a window to door conversion; got out there and he showed me the window, completely intact. I asked him how did he know there was wiring to move, and he got an exasperated look on his face (he didn't know me, yet, was referred by another guy I subbed to regularly), pointed to the two outlets, one on each side of the window, with his hammer and said "duh!". I almost walked, but instead I asked him if I could start his cutdown for him, took his hammer and started busting drywall under the window; I thought he was gonna vaporlock right there on the spot. Got it all knocked out, and whaddayaknow? No wiring. I charged him $150 for the service, never heard from him again.
Rrumbler wrote:Good looking door, nice work. Glad you avoided the wiring bugaboo; had a remodel contractor call me one time to move the wiring for a window to door conversion; got out there and he showed me the window, completely intact. I asked him how did he know there was wiring to move, and he got an exasperated look on his face (he didn't know me, yet, was referred by another guy I subbed to regularly), pointed to the two outlets, one on each side of the window, with his hammer and said "duh!". I almost walked, but instead I asked him if I could start his cutdown for him, took his hammer and started busting drywall under the window; I thought he was gonna vaporlock right there on the spot. Got it all knocked out, and whaddayaknow? No wiring. I charged him $150 for the service, never heard from him again.
Thats what those know-it-all wanna be contractors need, a good hit in the Butt Pocket makes a good lasting impression ,, on the walls with boxes on each side of the window,, and wondering if the wires are running under the window to the other box,, has a easier solution other than busting out all the drywall under the window,,( which actually you did his work for him, because it had to be removed anyway,,,) is taking the cover off one of the boxes, to see if the wiring comes up from the bottom or the top of the box, if it has wires from both the top and bottom. that means there is wires running under the window,, RIGHT?
smooth 150 $ wasn't it??
Thought you all might like a few more before and after pictures of the back of the house. Next to that sliding glass door, we recently removed the other window and put in an 8ft bay window. I think the aluminum at the top should have gone under the siding first, but I know that the top is very well caulked so I hope it will be ok.