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Post Info TOPIC: Honey do ... errrrr, Plumbing project DONE !!


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Honey do ... errrrr, Plumbing project DONE !!


We've been getting water from the Hudson River through a new pumping/processing station for a while. The water was pretty good - up to about a month ago when it started smelling like it came from the Dismal Swamp - and tasted about the same. I suspect that it met the state law - but it was crummy plus my morning caffeine fix was not going well. I spent some time with the town supervisor (mayor) who is a personal friend and lives close by and commiserated about the problem - it seems the water district are having trouble keeping the activated carbon desmell plant working (lack of money, methinks). I finally did something about it this week, just finishing the project.

Whole house, duplex filter - a sediment then an activated carbon element, a valve and some fittings and copper pipe. It's installed just above the water meter. Total ~$125 and 3-4 hours of puttering. Tastes decent now.

Now, one question for you folks - this was a fairly small project. Whyinhel did I have to use half my tool boxes worth of tools to do this job???

 

 



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

Quando omni flunkus, moritati (When all else fails, play dead - R Green)



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You got off light Dave

I am on a well, so much iron that I have an iron filter, ultra violet filter, reverse osmosis for drinking water and a water softener.......to the tune of $3500. Every year the ultra violet bulb and the RO filters have to be changed....$300/yr. Then, theres the salt for the softener......lol

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our water comes from the lake near by. its ok when the lake is full. but when it gets low forget it. thats a good price dave and well worth the time too. gota have good coffee. hahaha


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Now, one question for you folks - this was a fairly small project. Whyinhel did I have to use half my tool boxes worth of tools to do this job???

Only half??? 

 

I have to install a setup like that, myself; already have the loop for a water softener in the garage by the water heater, just a matter of doing it.



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I guess we are lucky in the water department,, Oregon has the best water around,, plentiful and rather cheap,,, theres a bunch of activists that are fighting the state on requiring floride be added to the drinking water,  our biggest problem here is the damn enviromentlist, that want to tell EVERYBODY how to do things whether they want it or not,,, managed to stop the timber industry, and lost all the goverment timber substidities to the lumber mill towns..

I think they actually don't realize that that soft sheet of paper they wipe their a Z Z's with comes from a tree,,,

now back to the dirty water problem,,,,,cry



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What really pizzez me off is that both towns, either side of us go to the State Fair competition every year and usually 'win' for the best in the state. We don't have a problem with the amount of water, just how the water company processes it. Our water used to come from wells near the Mohawk River (Erie Canal) but most of the pumping stations had lived their life plus were too small for a growing town so the town fathers were coerced into joining this County water system and that, 'of course it will be less expensive'. HAH!! It ended up being a case of necessity. The Hudson and Mohawk Rivers meet a mile or so from our town border

Rrumbler - we had a soft water loop too, but when I installed the new furnace, needed a couple more feet of 3/4" copper line at 10:00 one night ...... Plus it was a restriction on flow.

We lived in the boonies about 20 years ago and had well water you could almost chew the iron along with the sulphur and calcium. We had everything that you had, Harry, with the exception of the reverse osmosis. Those were just being sized for home owners about then. It took up a full corner of the basement and was about $2K then plus many bags of salt per year.

The filter housings and filter are standard Ametek pieces and bought on line a lot cheaper then Lowe's/HD even with shipping.

The elbows I'm using to connect the water line - Sharkbite. Not cheap, but a lot better then trying to solder a joint when that last drop of water comes trickling down and ruins a perfect job. The rest is standard soldering, preassembled on my work bench. The only problem was the Chinese tee that will have a gauge as soon as I can find it. That tee had really sloppy threads and the pipe nipples ran almost their entire threads in and was a b!@#h to stop leaking.



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

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Before we bought this house we're in now, I had them remove a water softener unit that had been in the house for 12 years and the seller said they had never used it. So I said take it out so I'll have more closet room - - - - so far so good on the water quality and I sure hope that decision doesn't come back and bite me in the butt.

fingers crossed,
meller

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I would almost be willing to give up one of my male body parts for the well we had in The Sierras.  That water came from a fractal rock formation some four hundred feet deep, and was the sweetest and purest water I have ever had the pleasure of using; also really cold.  The only problem with it was that that much head on the pump had a tendency to wear the motor out after about five years or so, and pulling that pump from four hundred feet down was a real chore, not to mention, it was expensive, too.  We tested the well every year, and it was so pure that the test results were always commented on by the lab that did the testing.  The County required a report every four years, and when they got ours from the lab, they always sent someone out from their office to re-test the well; guess they didn't trust us.  I am surprised that some "greenie" who worked in the "guv'mint" there didn't sue us for stealing some sort of prehistoric relic or some such malarky - Oh, did I just say "malarky?" - shades of "the VEEP, good ol' Joe".  biggrinbiggrin

In Bakersfield, the water was nasty, even after being treated in the water plant, because of the oil fields and agriculture, and we had a RO system there - didn't like it for squat, but it was a necessity.

Here in Las Vegas, the water is drawn from Lake Mead behind Hoover Dam, and is not too bad as far as taste goes - if they just wouldn't leave so much chlorine in it after they try to kill whatever bugs they are worried about, but it is highly mineralized, and will crud up the plumbing in fairly short order unless you do something to take some of thae minerals out.  There are several water treatment companies that sell all sorts of stuff from simple filter systems to top of the line RO outfits, but they are all way over priced, and folks are sort of over a barrel; get a system, or fix the plumbing and fixtures every so many years.



-- Edited by Rrumbler on Sunday 14th of October 2012 01:03:17 PM

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I have one more thing to do to 'purify' the water and that's to replace the anode rod in the HW tank. The tank is about 8 years old, all of the controls (gas) were replaced for free last year via a manufacturer's recall so they should be good for a while longer. Our water before the Hudson River water was quite hard and probably had about worn that original aluminum rod to a wire. I ordered a magnesium version since aluminum has been traced to arthritis and worse, Alzheimer's. Since I'm not getting any younger.................... now what were we discussing??

Both Lowe's (where I originally bought the heater) and Home Depot clerks looked at me like I had two heads when I asked where the rods were on the shelves - and didn't I really want to spend $400 bucks for a new HW heater. NO!! NO!! Thank golly for the internet, PEX Supply and $38 later.



-- Edited by Dave W on Sunday 14th of October 2012 08:30:13 PM

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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

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Dave W wrote:
Thank golly for the internet, PEX Supply and $38 later.

10-4 - we cuss it but what would we do without it?

Looks like you've got your water running on a downward slope now - - - KUDOS !



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My new HW heater magnesium anode rod showed up this afternoon. I tried to remove the old one - you gotta be kidding - holy cow - tight!!! Put my 18" breaker bar with a 1-1/16 socket and pulled then pushed. Even did the dastardly deed of whanging the breaker bar with a 4 pound hammer. NADA movement. Added 3 feet of cheater - turned the 40 gallon, 350 pounds full of water tank like it was nothing. Did it move the anode rod? NOT ONE LITTLE BIT!!! Cranked up the compressor to 150 psig and got my weakling impact wrench out. Movement? Not a bit!! Might be a trip to Harbor Fright for their 'Earthquake' impact wrench and a 1-1/16 impact socket as my impact set only goes to 1" or maybe not even bother - (well that ain't gonna happen - I don't give up on the possible)



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

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I hate to say it, Dave, but that thing may have welded itself right in there - electrolytically.  If it has, you may not get it out, but it is always worth the try.  Since you have already whanged on it with the impact, put some penetrant on it and see if you made any wee cracks in the corrosion that the juice will seep into.  When you get it out, clean the threads to bare metal, and apply some anti-corrosion grease on the threads before installing the new one - "No-Corrode" or "AntiCor" are two that I would consider; they are conductive, and really help to cut down on corrosion in electrical joints, which is what that thread connection is.  If the fitting(s) are aluminum, a grease called "No-Al-Ox" is good stuff, too.  But use the grease carefully, and sparingly, just enough to coat the threads completely but not have any get down into the tank and foul the water.

If you do have to replace the heater, do the same with the anode in it before you install it.



-- Edited by Rrumbler on Tuesday 16th of October 2012 11:23:46 PM

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Rrumbler wrote:

I hate to say it, Dave, but that thing may have welded itself right in there - electrolytically.  

 



-- Edited by Rrumbler on Tuesday 16th of October 2012 11:23:46 PM


 I have considered this too. The anode rod nut is steel going into a steel tank so maybe not. I did do an on-line search and found that almost every account says these things are a real bear to remove. What I'm losing some of my "power" while doing this is the fact the tank isn't bolted down, that it tries to turn when I 'lean' into a wrench. Besides this anode, it might be a reason (excuse?) to invest in a better impact wrench that will even loosen all 32 of the 165 pound torque lug nuts on my F350 to do an occasional tire rotation



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

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Dave W wrote:
it might be a reason (excuse?) to invest in a better impact wrench that will even loosen all 32 of the 165 pound torque lug nuts on my F350 to do an occasional tire rotation

 "brilliant" - - - an investment for the "Future" and well justified



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Well, 'blew' my chance for a new impact gun - at least today but Saturday is coming.

I got the anode rod out!!!!!!

I cut a piece of scrap 2x3 to fit between the concrete wall and the mechanical room studs. Popped loose pretty easily with the HW heater anchored. While it wasn't installed with Teflon tape nor was it dissimilar metal with the tank and rod plug being steel, it did have some sort of glue on the threads. I used Teflon pipe dope to install the new one though.

Kinda ugly



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

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Dave W wrote:

Well, 'blew' my chance for a new impact gun - at least today but Saturday is coming.

 


 I would have  bought it anyway,, just in case another excuse don't come up soon enough,,, A man can NEVER have enough tools,,,,



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Friday 2nd of November 2012 12:24:55 PM

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Bad Rat wrote:
Dave W wrote:

Well, 'blew' my chance for a new impact gun - at least today but Saturday is coming.

 


 I would have  bought it anyway,, just in case another excuse don't come up soon enough,,, A man can NEVER have enough tools,,,,



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Friday 2nd of November 2012 12:24:55 PM


 I tried - they were out of stock plus my $65 sale coupon and the 20% off coupon have now expired so have to wait for a while, but will soon, one way or another.

 

And that plumbing project - went a bit further though no pictures. I added another valve before the filter and a pressure gauge so now I can change the filter without turning off the incoming line valve which is a leaker and check if the filters are ready for change out. Also talked to the head of the water department last night at a political function. He cautioned me about carbon filters and that they can take out the chlorine and I could end up with smelly hot water - then I told him about the new anode .... I also asked about pressure - mine is right on at 50 pounds where we live and how far we are from the water tower



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

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thats purty neat set up Dave W looks good to................BEAR



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BEARS TOYS wrote:

thats purty neat set up Dave W looks good to................BEAR


 Thanks - super easy project that actually worked the first time !!!



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

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Dave W: Pretty slick how you anchored that water heater from moving. I've had that problem before you've given me new insight. Thanks.

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