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Post Info TOPIC: Low pressure, well water system


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Low pressure, well water system


Last few months, our water system water pressure has gotten worse and worse. We have a drilled well, not sure how deep, submersed pump to a pressure tank in the basement. Below the tank is a pressure switch and gauge. I have been reading a bit and the switch should cycle at a 20 pound interval.....starting at about 40 lbs and shutting off at 60. 60lbs of pressure should be plenty, right?....Well, the gauge shows it starting at 40 and shutting off at 80. I think the switch needs to be replaced and I dont trust what the gauge is saying, as there isnt a whole lot of water pressure. I drained the pressure tank and read the pressure in the top. Its about 35lbs empty, which I believe it should be. I am going to go buy a new pressure switch and gauge, but thought I would just mention it here, so if there is any advice you can give.

We also have the iron filter, water softener after the pressure tank....wondering if all that would tend to lower the pressure?



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A puzzle!  I love puzzles!

Since the pressure has been slowly getting lower, I would start looking at that filter first; it may be clogging up with iron (rust?), or sediment.  The resin tank on the softener might be clogging up, too. Those two things are the easiest to remedy in my opinion.

Now, the pressure system: first, if the pressure above the bladder in the tank is set at 35 psi, the pressure in the system should not drop below that unless the pump is not filling the lower section of the tank as fast as it should, and the tank is running low on water.  I would start with the pressure gauges, just replace them; they are not that expensive, and new gauges would give you a sense of assurance when you are trying to adjust the pressure switch.  Then start by making sure that the pressure switch is set correctly; it should have a differential of fifteen to twenty pounds, meaning the switch should close the contacts and start the pump when the system pressure reaches five to ten pounds below the static pressure of 35 psi - or the pump should start at 25 to 30 psi; it should then shut off when the system pressure reaches 40 to 45 psi. Depending on the make and design of the switch, the adjustment may be made by screw on a part of the switch body inside the housing, or from the outside; there should be a label inside the cover that describes how to wire and adjust the switch.  If you can't get it to adjust properly, or hold adjustment, or cycle the pump as it should, replace it. 

A worse scenario would be that your well is possibly silting up, or the water level in the well may be going down, or flow into the well casing may be slowing, so when the pump takes more water than is available, the pressure in the system will drop off during use; when the usage stops, the system recuperates to normal.  Also, the pump may be failing.

If you aren't sure about what you're doing, it might be best to call a well company and let them deal with the ins and outs of this; they can probably tell you pretty quickly what is going on, and they should have the expertise to take care of it in good fashion.

Our well in the Sierras was 460 feet, and we started having problems like this.  I fiddled with the switch, and the tank and everything seemed right, so I finally called a well company.  They came out, did a few checks, and pronounced the pump to be on it's last legs.  We "pulled the well", and put a new pump in, and whaddayaknow?  The well worked like new.  I messed around with it for several days, and when they came out, it was one guy, and after he did his trouble shooting of the thing, he called back to town and had another fella bring the correct pump and some equipment, and the whole thing was done in a few hours.



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Thanks....I bypassed the filter and water softener and got the same thing, so I am pretty sure its not them. They are only 4 years old. The filter self cleans every night as we do have a lot of iron. I think I am going to go buy a new gauge and switch and try that. Hope its not the pump.

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Years back I went through much of the same thing mentioned by Rrumbler. Did the new tank - nothing. Fiddled with the switch - nothing. Replaced the filters - nothing. Called the well guy - dam'!! Several hundred bucks later back in business with a new deep well pump.

I hope yours isn't that expensive, but that dam' well cost me a bunch of bucks for a new line into the house another time as well. The one positive though - it never ran out of water, even keeping that @#$%^&* pool full when we had a super low amount of rain for couple of years though it was full of iron and sulfur and cost a small mint to treat.



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'WOW '   I'm sure glad we are on city water,, just write a check every month,, luckly out water rates are pretty cheap here   I THINK???   since we have so much rainfall and the water is good quality water,,



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I have had a water well/pump about half of my adult life and liked them. Especially when we had lots of animals and automatic watering units in each stall. However, when we lost power because of a Hurricane or Tornadoe, we were left with zero facilities. At our age now, I definitely prefer paying by the gallon to have someone else pipe it in. My ex backed over the well house one weekend and it's a wonder we didn't Divorce that time instead of 20 years later. Let's just say that I was "slightly" P.O.d.

Good Luck with the fix, Harry,
Em



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I went to the plumbing place and talked to one of the techs.....He feels that likely my pipes are getting plugged up due to the iron. I bought a new switch and gauge anyways ($30)...and will have a look this weekend. Will take apart what I can and see if I can see some buildup.

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Ironically we lost our water pressure this morning due to a power failure at the water station but it's back up and running now. For a minute I thought that 'ol Murphy might have dropped by.

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