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Post Info TOPIC: Tiling drywall


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Tiling drywall


OK - I know how to do it. Glob on some mastic (glue) or if I was a pro, thinset and slap it up. But, or is that a butt............

Now am I doing this correctly? It amounts to both drywall work as well as tile installation. See this \/\/\/\/

I just peeled off the kitchen wall back splash that I put up 20 plus years ago when we first moved in and which worked very nicely. Since we are having new tan (kinda)tile installed on the counter top the stark white back splash tile needed to go. Unfortunately, when peeling the old tile off, a lot of the paper on the drywall came of as well - just the top layer mostly. The correct fix is to, of course, pull down the existing drywall and put up new. Not gonna happen as no way will I pull those cabinets down to work behind them. So, instead I skimmed the entire back splash section with compound and will sand it somewhere close enough for new tile. I will then paint that compound and let it dry completely though for 3-4 weeks then put new tile up.

Oh and that tiled counter top - I have to do all the prep work - which means all new plywood after I figure out how I put the old counter tops together 'way back then'. Then I need to replace all of the trim work. A pro will com in to plop the tile in place. Once all that's done, we will have a new floor installed. What's really making all of this fun is that I have only about 50% left eye visionconfuse



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

Quando omni flunkus, moritati (When all else fails, play dead - R Green)



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I was always told you don't use thinset on drywall, and you should use greenboard on counters and walls for setting tile where it will be exposed to water.  I think the mastic on the drywall will work, though, as long as there is some "tooth" for it to get hold of.



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Rrumbler wrote:

I was always told you don't use thinset on drywall, and you should use greenboard on counters and walls for setting tile where it will be exposed to water.  I think the mastic on the drywall will work, though, as long as there is some "tooth" for it to get hold of.


 There will be plenty of 'tooth'. I'll be sanding the skim coat with my auto refinish long board and either 80 or 100 grit before paint.

The just removed tiles did not come off easy and they were 'masticked' on slick painted drywall. As far as using thin set on walls - yeah, it can be done but not by this amateur so I can watch a few rows of tile slip to a messy pile on the floordisbelief



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

Quando omni flunkus, moritati (When all else fails, play dead - R Green)



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if you sand sufficiently, it should stick with no problem but green board would be the #1 choice if the project permits - - - be sure and let us know how this works for you - - - NOT that I could be talked into doing anything like this again - - - only difference is it's my right eye that "don't look so good"

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Mello Yello wrote:

if you sand sufficiently, it should stick with no problem but green board would be the #1 choice if the project permits - - - be sure and let us know how this works for you - - - NOT that I could be talked into doing anything like this again - - - only difference is it's my right eye that "don't look so good"


 Em, I used the green board when I redid the bathroom a couple years back and that tile hasn't fallen off yet. This kitchen back splash would require that I pull the cabinets out --- and that ain't gonna happen so that means mud and some good paint. The three small counter tops will get started today with the big one in a few.



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

Quando omni flunkus, moritati (When all else fails, play dead - R Green)



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I think you've got it going your way - - - good luck

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Mello Yello wrote:

I think you've got it going your way - - - good luck


  hope its working out fer ya.......................................................BEAR



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BEARS TOYS wrote:
Mello Yello wrote:

I think you've got it going your way - - - good luck


  hope its working out fer ya.......................................................BEAR


 Thanks, Bear. Think it's going pretty well for my part of the job. The tiler is due today for the counter tops then my wife needs to pick out the back splash tile for me to install after she has a scrap piece to work from. The wall work is done but for some primer type paint that I'll try to slobber on tonight.

It will be interesting to see if that tile guy does it right as one thing he said he would do might get him tossed out. The @#$% tile my wife picked was about 12 bucks a square foot and each tile is big at 2 square feet. This guy said he might score and snap the tile - no saw. One wasted tile - OK, 2 and he is GONE!!!!!!!



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Dave W (Irelands Child/IC2)

Quando omni flunkus, moritati (When all else fails, play dead - R Green)



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Dave ,, why don't you just cut the sheetrock at the bottom of the cabinets and remove the bottom part,, no need to take the cabinets down,, just make the cut about 6"inched below the cabinet bottoms, so you will have sufficient area to tape and finish the joint of the old board and the new green board,,  that area will never have any moisture on it,, and regular drywall mud will work fine,, no moisture will ever get behind the tile , HAVE FUN,,,,

Well it would have helped if I had read the all the posts before I started yappin,, Hope it all turned out good fer ya Dave

 

 

 

 

 



-- Edited by Bad Rat on Monday 18th of January 2016 11:14:51 AM

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